Time for Taiwan 2015-2016, Episode 21: Red House and Songyan by MRT
2015-2016年「台灣好好玩」第二十集: 搭北捷到紅樓和松菸
Transcript 文字稿:
Repurposing old buildings is a topic that I really love. Today we’re taking the Taipei MRT to the Red House and the old Songshan tobacco factory.
賦予老建築新生命對我來說一直是一個很有趣的主題。今天我們要搭台北捷運到紅樓和以前的松山菸廠。
I'm Michella. I grew up in the Silicon Valley and was a journalist in Taiwan for ten years. I like to try new things, play with new toys, and visit old places in a new way. I’m going to show you around the Taiwan that I know. I hope you’ll enjoy it as much as I do.
When you come to Taiwan, get an Easycard or iPass, it will get you really far with very little fuss. The Red House is at the number one exit of Ximen Station.
來台灣的時候,可以買一張悠遊卡或一卡通,這到處都可以用,非常方便。紅樓在西門站的一號出口。
“Honglou,” or the “Red House” was designed and built in 1908 during the Japanese occupation by architect Kondo Juro, who studied in the West, thus the western appearance.
紅樓建於1908年,日治時期。在西方國家留過學的建築師近藤十郎,給了紅樓西方的建築面貌。
The Red House was first a marketplace, and then a theater, and now more recently, a place where young designers can sell their work. By the way, my parents grew up around here and this is where they would go on their dates.
Next let’s take the blue line to Sun Yat-sen Memorial Station. We want to take exit number 5.
接下來我們搭板南線到國父紀念館站,我們走5號出口。
This is a new building with a nice hotel and some great shops, cafes and restaurants. I almost always accidentally overspend here. But it’s always good to contribute to the economy.
That’s the factory where cigarettes and cigars were made. A conveyer belt rolls the finished products to the warehouse where on the other side there is a train waiting to be loaded. I want to show you the inside of the factory, come on!
I love these hallways. Most photographers do, too.
我好喜歡這裏的走廊,很多攝影愛好者都喜歡。
If you think Google is cool because it has a daycare, Songyan had on-campus childcare almost a hundred years ago.
很多人都覺得Google有托嬰中心,實在好棒,跟你說,松菸一百年前也有托兒所。
This was the old daycare center. Now it’s a wonderful little cafe and bookstore.
這裏就是以前的托兒所,現在是一間可愛的咖啡店和書店。
In the old space where they used to repair machinery is now a glass art exhibition space. The pieces are incredibly beautiful and the delicateness and colorfulness of glass in contrast to the tough, old and even perhaps grimy tobacco factory of the past paints an interesting picture for me.
I wish I had more time to talk about this place. You really have to see for yourself. It’s soothing, it’s artistic, it’s fun, it’s inspiring, it’s so many things. You should come!
Red House is in a special neighborhood - Wanhua. My parents grew up there, and it was one of the more affluent districts in Taipei when they were little. My grandfathers both learned to do business towards the end of the Japanese occupation, and when the Japanese were forced to return to their home country after losing WWII, they left behind some resources and businesses that people like my grandparents were able to pick up and build on. So for a good while, my parents’ families did quite well. The Red House was there when they were growing up, so going to the cinema, going to buy food, and even going to eat out often involved going to Red House. There used to be a hot pot place Qingxiang 清香 inside Red House that they used to go to all the time. The restaurant moved to a nearby alley after a big fire in the Red House. It’s still quite popular among older foodies.
These days, Red House is mostly known as a place where young people shop for locally designed products. In the back there’s Riverside Live House where you can listen to live music. On the side is a big outdoor gay bar and related businesses.
Architecture wise, the main building is in an octagonal shape and the building behind it looks like a crucifix. The octagon in Chinese culture wards off evil and the crucifix has a similar role in Western culture. It’s a bit difficult to imagine, but there’s an aerial diagram near the entrance to look at and you’ll get it when you see it. Why so paranoid about evil spirits? The reason is because criminals that were to be executed were gathered up in front of Red House before getting marched off to the nearby execution grounds, and administrators wanted to make sure no spirits came back to cause trouble with business in the Red House.
A few stops down on the blue line is Songshan Cultural and Creative Park, or “Songyan” as most people call it. This is a place to come back to again and again. There are lots of small exhibitions here and some are fantastic. The glass art exhibition “Why Glass & Toots Zynsky” that was going on when we were there was quite something. There’s shopping that’s a bit different from run-of-the-mill department stores, some restaurants, lots of cafes, bookstores and outdoor spots to just hang out and enjoy. Where exactly to go? On this trip we stopped by Kotipesa, a clothing brand where my friend is the owner and very talented chief designer, the shop inside the factory building where they have a very cool industrial style cafe and a store with lots of very interesting little everyday items and souvenirs, the glass art exhibition by Liuli Gongfang, Liuli’s restaurant where you get to use very expensive dining ware and eat nice food (the three cheese pasta and soufflé were very good) in the open air, and Yue Yue Bookstore which started as a set for a TV series but ended up becoming a real bookshop and cafe. These are just a few places, and there are lots more to explore at Songyan.
Time for Taiwan 2015-2016, Episode 19: Jiji by Train
2015-2016年「台灣好好玩」第十九集: 搭火車到集集
Transcript 文字稿:
Today we’re in Jiji, Nantou County, and the theme of this trip is “tunnels.”
今天我們來到南投縣集集鎮,這次的主題是:隧道。
I'm Michella. I grew up in the Silicon Valley and was a journalist in Taiwan for ten years. I like to try new things, play with new toys, and visit old places in a new way. I’m going to show you around the Taiwan that I know. I hope you’ll enjoy it as much as I do.
To get to Jiji, you can take a train. The Jiji line starts at Ershui Station, which is in Changhua. You can pay by tagging on and off with an Easycard or iPass.
大家可以搭火車到集集,集集支線的起點在彰化二水。購票,其實用悠遊卡或一卡通刷上刷下就好了。
Railroads in the very beginning were built to transport not people, but resources. The Jiji branch line was first built for transporting sugar canes, then it was widened for camphor, bananas and building materials for a dam in the 1930’s during the Japanese occupation.
The dam at Sun Moon Lake was built to generate electricity, and the scale of the construction was huge and the local office anticipated that the emperor would visit, so they built a station house for this stop on the railroad.
This station house was originally in Yangmei, Taoyuan. It was retired, taken apart, numbered and put into storage. But when they heard that the big boss was coming, instead of building a brand new station house, they decided to find all the parts very quickly, put them on a train, and reassemble everything here in Jiji. I think that’s so cool and environmentally friendly, too! And personally, the grayish blue paint and white paint, I love that combination. Almost 100 years later, it’s back in fashion.
To visitors, this place looks nice and perhaps nostalgic. To people who have lived here their all their lives, it’s a place filled with memories. In the old days clocks weren’t common, people relied on the trains, which came in at the same times every day, to tell the time. That’s even more cool.
This is where you can find out why even the royal family in Japan was so bananas about Taiwan bananas.
來到這裏就可以知道為什麼當年日本皇室那麼愛台灣的香蕉。
These are local bananas, and because the elevation here is above 200 meters, these are technically “mountain bananas.” So how do you know what kind of banana you’re looking at? This part of the mountain banana is shorter than that of the average banana.
Did you know that a banana is a berry? And that bananas on the market are genetically modified? Because if you peel open an ancient non GM banana, you’re going to get some huge seeds and no meat. So perhaps GMO’s aren’t necessarily all that evil.
Anyway, because Jiji bananas were so tasty and high in demand, back in those days, banana farmers here made a fortune in the old days. So if a handsomely dressed government officer and a banana farmer dressed in dirty work clothes and slippers walked into a bar together, the girls after money would pick the farmer in a heartbeat.
There are so many stories about this town and interesting things about bananas you can learn here. Let’s skip to the DIY part. Banana chocolate!
這裏有好多關於集集的故事,還有香蕉的知識。不過今天我們要跳到DIY的部分了,我們要做香蕉巧克力!
This is a camphor tree, about 400-700 years old. There used to be lots and lots of these here, but people started cutting them down in the 19th century because it was one of the ingredients for smokeless gun powder.
Every time a gun is shot, smoke goes up in the air, the enemy would see where the shooter is. So smokeless gun powder and camphor were in high demand, which was really bad news for these trees. It’s said that 70% of the world’s camphor came from the Jiji area.
This is Jiji’s famous “green tunnel,” on both sides of the road are camphor trees. These were planted in 1940 when Japan celebrated the 2,600 year of its founding. Each household was asked to plant three trees, and camphor being the valuable and native resource that it is, was the tree of choice for Jiji residents.
At the stop after Jiji, you’ll find the Shuili Snake Kiln, our other tunnel.
集集的下一站是水里,這裏有蛇窯,很像一條隧道。
Because from far away it looks like a snake, that seems to have just had a feast, people called this kind of kiln a “snake kiln.” Another reason for the name is, in Taiwanese the counter for long objects has the same sound as “snake,” and the counter word later became mixed with the reptile and the name stuck.
In the old days, people would come and huddle by the kiln for warmth. Nowadays we have hand warmers, which are about this big and this thick. But back then they used bamboo baskets with a ceramic pot inside and inside those pots they would toss pieces of hot charcoal and hod the baskets like this for warmth.
When the kilns are fired up, they get quite hot, both inside and out. Damp wood would be placed over the kilns to be dried. But not only that. People who lived around here would also bring their laundry that they had just done, still damp, and place those over the wood. And that worked as a dryer for them.
The kilns are fired for 3 days at 1,200 degrees Celsius. On the last day after all the ceramics have been removed and the temperature drops to around 100 degrees, women with their damp and curled hair held together by fresh bamboo pins, would run inside and quickly run back outside and their hair would be newly permed. If that wasn’t curly enough, they would make the trip on more time. Run inside and quickly run back out, and that should do it.
Before plastics and other materials became readily available, people relied on ceramics for practically everything, from pots to water tanks, pipes, pipe fittings, some of them big, some of them small. This one is big enough to fit a person, and actually it is supposed to fit a person. This is a bomb shelter that would be buried under the ground with just about 5 cm of the rim sticking out of the ground. During the war and before the war, the military ordered tons and tons of these, and soldiers would even have to come to help with production.
Jiji might not sound like much. But it's not just a small town with lots of banana snacks. It’s amazing culturally and historically. I had so much fun learning about what camphor trees were used for, how the station house was built, why it was built and about the snake kiln and the people it served. The green tunnel is beautiful and the stories are so interesting. You should come!
I really enjoyed Jiji and Shuili, because of the fun stories and the history. The banana museum is relatively new and it was my first time there. I’ve been to the snake kiln a few times now and I feel like I learn something new every time I’m there.
The banana museum was fun. They greet you with tea eggs braised with some part of banana in the sauce, banana tea, banana egg rolls, dried bananas, banana cakes, banana chocolate…all kinds of bananas. The folks there are working really hard to sell their story and their bananas. They teamed up with a nearby university to design the packaging of some of their products, and I think they did a pretty good job! The motifs are cute in a pretty original way they depict stories relevant to the local banana industry. At the museum you’ll find displays on the banana industry here, its history, facts about bananas, and I found most of it quite interesting. It’s worth taking time to go through. Unfortunately there isn’t much in English yet. There are a couple of DIY activities you can do there, and both are fun. You can transplant a banana seedling and take it home, or you can make banana chocolates.
The history of the station house is also very interesting, starting from how it was built, or reconstructed here as I mentioned in the video. In 1999, the Jiji earthquake nearly destroyed the train station but luckily it was saved from demolition. The station house looked quite different than what it does now before it was restored. Historians wanted to restore the station house to what it originally looked like, so scraped down all the layers of various colors of paint until the very last one before the wood and determined that this is what color it was in the very beginning. I really, really like the bluish grey and white combination.
The snake kiln is amazing, from the tunnel itself to the items it once fired (including hand warmers and coffins). You can watch ceramic artists at work there, try your hand at pottery, buy some pottery (I bought some really pretty bowls made there at very reasonable prices), or just enjoy the trees and the space.
I took a lot of pictures on this trip and I hope to make a slideshow with commentary with them soon. Stay tuned!
這次拍了好多照片(哈,沒不小心洗掉),改天找個時間做成幻燈片,搭配語音解說,到時候再請大家來看看~
We stayed at the Teacher’s Hostel in Sun Moon Lake this time. It’s old, but spacious and they’re building a new building, which means the old ones should be getting a much, much needed upgrade soon.