Time for Taiwan 2015-2016, Episode 5: Paper Dome, Nantou 2015...
Time for Taiwan 2015-2016, Episode 5: Paper Dome, Nantou 2015-2016年「台灣好好玩」第五集:南投紙教堂Deluxe edit 完整版Transcript 文字稿:This is the Taichung high speed rail station, my favorite of them all, because my uncle, Mark Ongg and his team designed it. Today I’m taking to you another architectural marvel: a beautiful church in Puli, made of paper.這是高鐵台中站,我最喜歡的一站,因為是我舅舅翁祖模和他的建築團隊設計的。今天我要帶大家到另外一個建築奇景,埔里的紙教堂,紙做的教堂。I'm Michella. I grew up in the Silicon Valley and was a journalist in Taiwan for ten years. I like to skateboard, DIY things and travel. I’m going to show you around the Taiwan that I know. I hope you’ll enjoy it as much as I do.我是米雪拉,在美國矽谷長大,回來台灣當了十年的新聞工作者,喜歡滑滑板,DIY,還有旅行。台灣好好玩,到底有多好玩,讓我和你分享。Puli, Nantou County is on the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle’s Sun Moon Lake Route, so that’s what we’re taking today. Tickets are sold at exit number five of the Taichong high speed rail station.南投縣埔里是在台灣好行的日月潭線上,所以現在我們要去搭台灣好行巴士,要到台中高鐵站五號出口的地方買票。Can I have one of these please?可以給我一個這個嗎?OK. When you get on and get off, scan this in the bus.好。上下車的時候感應一下。OK, thanks.好,謝謝。There are different ticket packages that you can get, we got the Easycard that includes the shuttle ride, ropeway, round-the-lake bus and a boat ride, and it was NT$710, which is a good deal. Taiwan Tourist Shuttles are buses that start at major transportation depots and make stops at popular tourist attractions, they’re quite convenient.這裡有好幾種套票,我們選的這一個悠遊卡套票包含好行巴士,纜車,環潭公車,還有遊艇,總價710元,很划算。台灣好行是從各大車站接駁到主要觀光景點的巴士,很方便。We got on at High Speed Rail Taichung Station, and this is the Sun Moon Lake station.剛才我們在台中高鐵站上車,搭到這裡,日月潭站。When you come to the “riyuetan” or Sun Moon Lake area, it's a good idea to start at the lake and branch out from here.來這一帶玩,建議大家先到日月潭,再從這邊以放射狀的方式玩。Nantou County, where we are right now, is in the middle of Taiwan, and is the only county in Taiwan that doesn’t border the ocean, but Nantou has an incredibly picturesque lake right in the middle of it. This is Sun Moon Lake.這邊,南投縣位於台灣最中央的地區,是唯一不靠海的縣市,不過南投的最中央有一個非常漂亮的湖泊,這裡是日月潭。On the Sun Moon Lake line, there are several places that you can go. In addition to the paper church, or "Paper Dome,” I also want to take you to a place where they still make paper by hand.台灣好行日月潭線有好多地方可以去,今天除了紙教堂,我還想要帶大家到一家堅持繼續用手工做紙的工廠。The best way to get to the paper factory is to take a taxi.到紙工廠,最簡單的方式就是搭計程車。Puli, Nantou in its heyday had 50 handmade paper factories and was the largest producer of paper in Asia. Part of the reason is because the water here is so clean. There aren’t that many factories left, but this one is still around and it’s open to visitors.最盛時期,南投埔里有大約50家造紙廠,是亞洲最大的產紙區,其中一個原因是,埔里的水很清澈。現在只剩下幾家,像這一家還開放遊客參觀。“Shougongzhi,” or handmade paper is made by collecting fibers diluted in water and plant resin, and drained through a screen. The fibers come from a variety of plants, including bark, hemp, rattan, grass and bamboo. Exactly how much of what goes into the mixture is a secret recipe that only the craftsmen know. Different materials create different effects for the writer or artist.紙的傳統作法是用竹簾篩出纖維和植物膠混和製成的物質。纖維則來自不同的植物,包括樹皮,麻,藤,草,還有竹子。確切比例則是商業機密,這只有師傅們才知道。不同的配方做出來的紙都不一樣,會帶給書畫家不同的效果。Looks like tofu, right? Well, it’s paper, and in the same way as fresh tofu, it needs to be pressed slowly, so that the water drains but not the fibers.看起來像豆腐,對不對?這其實是紙,不過跟豆腐還有一個共同點,就是它需要經過慢慢壓榨,讓水慢慢流出,保留著纖維。First the fibers are steamed and boiled, then soaked, bleached and stirred. Then the paper is formed, pressed, dried and finished. The entire process takes about a week.製作過程是蒸煮,浸泡,漂白,打漿,抄紙,壓榨,乾燥,成紙。整個程序需要大約一個禮拜。What really I like about this place is, not only do you get to see how things are made, you get to try it yourself, too. This won’t take a week, maybe just a couple of hours.我很喜歡這裡,因為不只可以看見東西是怎麼做的,我們還可以親自去體驗。DIY部分不用到一個禮拜,一兩個小時就可以完成了。And this is “zhi,” paper. Yay!這就是紙。耶!Paper is said to have been invented in China as early as the second century, BC for padding and for wrapping things. Then people started using it for writing, for money, for wiping things.紙,據說是在中國發明的,西元前一百多年就已經有人把它拿來做包裝。後來才開始被用來寫東西,做成鈔票,然後擦拭東西等等。The materials that go into paper making can be quite interesting. For example this one was made with cow poop. No, I’m not eating cow poop. This is chocolate paper. It’s made with chocolate, fibers from an orange, carrots and shiso leaves. So we have paper poop, paper dessert. But what about paper church? How does that work?紙的原料其實還蠻有趣的,像這張啊,裡面有牛便便。沒有啦,我不是在吃牛大便。這是巧克力紙,是用巧克力還有橘子,紅蘿蔔,紫蘇的纖維做的。所以我們有紙便便,紙點心,那紙教堂呢?紙教堂又是什麼樣?Here we are at Taomikeng, the Paper Dome stop.我們現在來到了桃米坑,紙教堂這一站。Smell those flowers!哇,花好香喔!When I first heard about this “paper” church, I thought it’s probably just some regular old building perhaps decorated with locally handmade paper, because after all Puli is known for its handmade paper. But no, I was wrong. The structure is made of paper! It was designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban.我第一次聽到紙教堂的時候,我想說可能就是一般的建築,然後裡面裝飾了一些附近手工紙工廠的東西,畢竟埔里手工紙很有名。結果我錯了,教堂的結構真的是紙做的。設計師是一位叫做板茂的日本建築師。All 58 pillars that support the roof are made of paper. They look like giant kitchen paper tubes, but each can withstand 7000 kg of downward force. And these benches, they’re just smaller versions of the same thing. Fifteen to 20 people can sit on each of these at the same time. They’re strong, yet lightweight. See? At only 40 kg, two people can move a bench.撐起屋頂的58根柱子都是紙做的。它們看起來像餐巾紙的紙管,不過每一支能夠支撐7000公斤的重量。長凳基本上就是柱子的縮小版,一次能坐15到20人。它很堅固卻很輕盈,你看。重量才40公斤,兩個人就能搬動它。The Paper Dome or “zhijiaotang” was originally a temporary church in Kobe, Japan, built after the Great Hanshin Earthquake of 1994. The church later donated the building to this place, Puli, because Puli too suffered from a horrendous temblor in 1999, the Jiji Earthquake.紙教堂原本是在日本神戶的一間臨時教堂,是在1994年阪神大地震之後蓋的。當地教會後來把教堂捐贈給埔里,因為埔里也曾經受過大地震襲擊,是921的重災區。The donation of the Paper Dome was a sign of friendship and is now a place to share community rebuilding experiences.紙教堂的捐贈象徵日本對台灣的友好,而這個空間也成為一個社區重建經驗分享的地方。So the Paper Dome in Kobe was deconstructed, transported and then reassembled here in Puli.神戶的紙教堂就這樣當地解體,搬運來埔里,然後重新組裝。Who knew that paper could be such a strong material, for construction and for connecting people?沒想到紙竟然能夠蓋房子,交朋友。真是令人大開眼界。I can spend days and days in Sun Moon Lake. There are so many things to do here, it’s beautiful on so many levels. Also, I became engaged here so it has a very special place in my heart. I’m sure you will find it wonderful too. You should come.來到日月潭,我可以待上好多好多天。這裡有各種好玩的東西,各種美麗的地方。加上我的好ㄤ在這裡跟我求婚,讓我心中的日月潭永遠都很特別。相信您來到這裡也會很喜歡。大家要來喔!民視新聞 翁郁容 彭柏勳 南投報導--------------------------------------------------------------------------------What do you do when you want to see the ocean and hear the crash of its waves when you're in Kaohsiung? Just hop on the MRT. Today I'm going to show you around Cijin.來到高雄,如果突然想看海景,聽浪聲,怎麼辦?搭上捷運就能夠到海邊啦。今天我要帶大家到旗津玩!I'm Michella. I grew up in the Silicon Valley and was a journalist in Taiwan for ten years. I like to run, grow hydroponic food and travel. I’m going to show you around the Taiwan that I know. I hope you’ll enjoy it as much as I do.我是米雪拉,在美國矽谷長大,回來台灣當了十年的新聞工作者,喜歡跑步,種水耕蔬菜,還有旅行。台灣好好玩,到底有多好玩,讓我和你分享。We’re at Central Park Station, and in order to get to Cijin, we need to take the orange line to Sizihwan. There’s this special ticket set that you can get which includes the fare of the MRT and the ferry, and a discount on bike rentals, but I'm going to stick to my iPass, because it works on the MRT and at convenience stores.這裡是高雄捷運中央公園站,到旗津呢,我們要搭橘線到西子灣。其實有個套票可以買,捷運票,船票,還有租腳踏車的折價券都包括在套票當中。不過,我要用我的一卡通,因為捷運,便利商店,也都能通。If you get the package, this is the bike rental place that will give you a discount but there are lots of options to get around, including public bikes and electric scooters.如果買套票,這家是配合活動的腳踏車租賃業者,其實還有很多其他的選擇,包括公共腳踏車,還有電動摩托車等等。From here we take the ferry, which is just down the street.從這裡呢,我們要去搭渡輪,這條街走到底就到了。There’s one thing I especially enjoy about this boat ride is: it’s only just ten minutes long, there’s not enough time to get seasick.這個船程有個地方我特別喜歡,就是它很短,才10分鐘,根本沒時間暈船。“Qi” in Cijin means “flag,” and “jin” has to do with “water.” From the air, this little area of land looks like a flag, which were triangular in the old days.旗津的「旗」是旗子的意思,「津」是跟水有關。鳥瞰旗津,像一面旗,古時候的旗,是三角形的。From here, you can see the city and the harbor. I think it’s quite lovely.從這裡可以看到市區和港口,我個人覺得蠻讚的。This fort was built in the Qing dynasty to guard Kaohsiung. Over the years, the military also dug a network of tunnels.旗後砲台是在清朝設立的,為的就是保護高雄。後來軍方在這裡也挖了四通八達的隧道。It's so dark in here, really mysterious. I feel super adventurous today. This is great.哇,這裡面好黑,好神祕。今天很有探險家精神。讚讚讚!This is an old bunker, soldiers used to look out through here and see if enemy is approaching. Da-da-da-da-da-da. Maybe. Maybe not.這裡以前是碉堡,阿兵哥就從這邊看是不是有敵人要上來了。然後就噠噠噠噠噠噠。或許。或許不是。哈哈哈。Cijin is where it all began for Kaohsiung. This is where explorers from China first came and settled. In fact, this was the point of entry for a lot of people, including missionaries, who brought not only Western religion, but modern medicine as well. The first church and hospital in Taiwan were here in Cijin.旗津是高雄的發源地,以前中國人來到南台灣開墾,就是從這裡開始。其實早期很多外國人也是從高雄進來台灣,包括傳教師,而這些傳教師不但帶來西方的宗教,還有現代醫學。台灣第一間教堂和第一間西醫院都在旗津。Mm, refreshing. This is how people in Kaohsiung and in Tainan eat tomatoes: raw, with a thick, sweet soy sauce, grated ginger and sugar. Let’s call that “salad.”好爽口~ 高雄和台南人都這樣吃番茄,配甜甜稠稠的醬油膏,薑末,還有砂糖。我們就叫這個「沙拉」吧。A lot of people come to Cijin and they have seafood, but you don't need me for that. I want to show you a fish noodle place I recently discovered. The noodles are made of fish meat, 98% fish meat, and the rest is just a little bit of flour to keep the fish meat noodles from sticking together. It’s really different. Really interesting. And I think quite good.很多人到旗津的時候都會跑去吃海產,這就不用我帶大家去了。今天我想帶你去的地方是一家我最近發現的魚麵店。麵條是98%魚肉做的,其他就是一點麵粉,讓魚肉麵條不黏在一起。很不一樣,很有趣,我覺得不錯吃。Quite thick and al dente. And healthy too because the protein and fiber content is higher than that of regular noodles.厚厚QQ的。而且健康,因為蛋白質和纖維比例比起一般麵,還要高。Right after they’re made, they’re put in the freezer, so there isn’ that overpowering fishy smell that reminds me of stinky socks. This is good. I like.因為麵一做好就放冷凍庫,沒有那種會讓人想起「臭腳燒」的魚腥味。這個好吃。我喜歡~This is the Pier 2 Art Center, also within walking distance from Sihziwan Station.這裡是駁二藝術特區,也是西子灣車站出來走路就能到的地方。I like Kaohsiung because it’s a big city, yet it’s laid back. There are big department stores, and yet there are lots of open spaces with history, culture and nature. It’s quite nice. You should come.我喜歡高雄,因為它是個大都市,但感覺蠻放鬆的。這裡有很大的百貨公司,但也有很空曠的空間,有歷史,有文化,有大自然。很棒。大家要來喔~民視新聞 翁郁容 彭柏勳 高雄報導--------------------------------------------------------------------------------Episode info:We visited Sun Moon Lake, the Paper Dome and the Guangxing paper factory 廣興紙寮. It's a popular destination so there are so many options for ticket packages that it's confusing. If you want the package to include roundtrip tickets on the high speed rail, you need to buy it through 7-11's ibon kiosk. The HSR package includes roundtrip tickets on the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Sun Moon Lake line and boat tickets. You can add gondola (they call it "ropeway" in Nantou) tickets and admission to the Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village at a discount at the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle counter of the Taichung HSR station. Or you can do what we did and start at the Taichung HSR station and buy one of the other packages from there (again, more options, options options options).Once you get to Sun Moon Lake, it's hard to go anywhere else because I find it just so beautiful. I just want to walk or ride along the lake all day. But there is really a lot to do around there. There are tea farms where they let you pick and make your own tea from scratch, there are hiking paths, there is that famous bicycle path over the water, there are nice hotels with fantastic views...on this trip we went to Guangxing, a handmade paper factory and the Paper Dome.To get to Guangxing, you can take the local bus, rent a car at Sun Moon Lake (which is not a bad option if you want to explore the area, which is quite big), or take a taxi.Pros and cons of:Taking the local bus: cheap, but you have to walk probably 30-40 minutes uphill from the nearest stop, and there is very little if any English service on those buses.Renting a car: expensive but you are free to go wherever you want, effortlessly.Taking a taxi: expensive if you don't have anyone to share the ride with (apparently they don't go by the meter there. The driver charged us NT$600 one way. A bit steep, but if you split it with other travelers, it's not so bad), gets you there fastYou should probably call or have someone who speaks Chinese to call ahead to make a reservation for you. They'll give you a tour of the place and give you a paper making workshop for a small fee (there are several projects to choose from, I wanted to do all of them...). The paper factory was a lot of fun for me. I went home with some paper for my mom who likes to do Chinese calligraphy and for myself for future woodblock printing projects. If you like arts and crafts and seeing how things are made, expect to spend half a day there. If you're not into that kind of thing, it might not be worth the trouble to go all the way out there.The Paper Dome has a stop on the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Sun Moon Lake Line and I recommend going in the afternoon so you can walk around the area (they have ponds, lilies, frogs, butterflies, lots of nature), take a look at how the Paper Dome works, watch a presentation (in Chinese) about the dome, and then when it starts getting dark, enjoy the blue light in the sky, the colorful lights projected onto the dome, and the reflection of it all from one of the ponds. If you run of of things to do while waiting for it to get dark, read a book while listening to the frogs and insects prepare for bed. It's quite soothing. I did some writing while we were there. Oh, make sure to bring bug spray.As for what to eat there, it can be a little tricky. The food at the nicer hotels can't go wrong, but it's pricey. Cheap and tasty food for some reason is difficult to find there. If you go out to Puli, there is a lot more to choose from.On this trip, we stayed at Sun Moon Lake Teacher's Hostel, which is open to everyone but gives special discounts to teachers, government workers and military workers in Taiwan. There wasn't wifi in our crew's rooms (we stayed in the old building) but perhaps in their new buildings they have it. The view from our rooms were amazing. We were right by the lake. There are lots of hotels at Sun Moon Lake and some are very nice, including Lalu and Wen Wan. Fuli and Fleur de Chine are a couple that I've been to and don't mind going back to again if we get the chance.I've been to Sun Moon Lake at least 10 times now and I'm still not tired of it. You should come!Wardrobe and accessories:Kotipesa overalls (smart casual)Martian smartwatch (smart with design)Boosted Board (fun fun fun)--------------------------------------------------------------------------------本集資訊:這一次到日月潭,我們主要去了紙教堂Paper Dome和廣興紙寮。日月潭是個很熱門的景點,感覺套票多到令人眼花撩亂。影片中我們是從台中高鐵站買好行和日月潭一些設施的套票(光這裡的票種就有三個還四個),不過其實從高鐵這一段也有套票,不過要到7-11透過ibon買,基本包含75折的高鐵來回車票,台灣好行車票,船票,不過到了台中高鐵站的台灣好行櫃檯,還可以以折扣價錢加九族文化村Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village和日月潭纜車的票。反正套票種類多到有一點寧願選擇少一點的感覺,往好處想,很多優惠方案,哈~到了日月潭,其實我都會卡住,不想去別的地方了。它就是好美!不管心情多糟,看到那裡的胡光山水就好放鬆。日月潭周遭有好多可以玩的地方,有好多散步,爬山步道,那條超世界有名的水上腳踏車道,廣告和婚紗裡面常出現的象山遊客中心,能讓採茶烘茶製茶的觀光茶園,景色漂亮的飯店....說不完,玩不完。任何路(anyway),我們這次主要挑了廣興紙寮和紙教堂介紹給大家。廣興紙寮的交通比較複雜,因為好行沒停。可以搭南投客運其他公車,在日月潭租車,或是坐計程車。公車的好處是便宜,缺點是下車後還要走半小時路,而且上坡,然後很可能會迷路,建議帶個電動滑板之類的。租車的話有點貴,不過很自由。搭計程車的話,如果跟其他人分攤那一趟600元(不跳表,直接講價)的錢就還好,而且很快就到了。去廣興紙寮前,建議先打電話預約,因為那邊會有人導覽,還有教你DIY(收費很合理,不同DIY有不同價錢,差不多200起跳)。老實說我很想玩他們所有的DIY,但會拍不完,回不了家。最後我只做紙張和拓印,然後買了宣紙給愛寫書法的翁奶奶,還有給自己以後做版畫用。我個人在那邊玩得很開心,可以玩半天以上,不過你如果對DIY和沒什麼興趣,不想了解紙張是怎麼做的,可以把這整段行程刪除,因為真的有點遠,然後除了紙以外,沒別的了。紙教堂,台灣好行巴士有停,我建議大家下午去,先在園區看看走走,裡面有池子,蓮花,青蛙,花,蝴蝶等等可以欣賞。紙教堂定時會有解說員到裡面跟大家介紹它是怎麼做的,怎麼來的。快天黑的時候是個拍照的好時刻,天色藍藍的,加上紙教堂繽紛的燈光和水池的倒影,蠻漂亮的。如果距離天黑還有一段時間,可以讀本書,聽青蛙們準備晚餐的聲音,還蠻療癒的。千萬要記得帶防蚊液。至於吃的呢,比較傷腦筋一點。好飯店的菜都很不錯,不過就是比較貴。很難找到市區那種便宜又好吃的東西,所以我們都往埔里鬧區走,那邊選擇就很多。這一次的飯店,我們訂在教師會館Sun Moon Lake Teacher's Hostel,軍公教有特別的優惠。我們住的是比較舊的那一棟,所以房間沒有wifi,或許其他新的兩棟有。雖然比較舊,但風景很棒,就在湖畔,很漂亮。日月潭有好多飯店,有些很高級,像涵碧樓Lalu和日月行館Wen Wan。我去過馥麗Fuli和雲品Fleur de Chine,這兩家不錯,有機會還想再去住!我去過日月潭至少10次了,但完全不會覺得膩。還想再去!You should come~服裝與配件:kotipesä 連身褲 (我覺得很可愛~)Martian摩絢錶 智慧型手錶 (又有智慧又有設計感)Boosted Boards (兩個字:好玩)
Posted by FTV Time for Taiwan on Saturday, September 26, 2015
Time for Taiwan 2015-2016, Episode 5: Paper Dome, Nantou
2015-2016年「台灣好好玩」第五集:南投紙教堂
Transcript 文字稿:
This is the Taichung high speed rail station, my favorite of them all, because my uncle, Mark Ongg and his team designed it. Today I’m taking to you another architectural marvel: a beautiful church in Puli, made of paper. 這是高鐵台中站,我最喜歡的一站,因為是我舅舅翁祖模和他的建築團隊設計的。今天我要帶大家到另外一個建築奇景,埔里的紙教堂,紙做的教堂。 |
I'm Michella. I grew up in the Silicon Valley and was a journalist in Taiwan for ten years. I like to skateboard, DIY things and travel. I’m going to show you around the Taiwan that I know. I hope you’ll enjoy it as much as I do. 我是米雪拉,在美國矽谷長大,回來台灣當了十年的新聞工作者,喜歡滑滑板,DIY,還有旅行。台灣好好玩,到底有多好玩,讓我和你分享。 |
Puli, Nantou County is on the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle’s Sun Moon Lake Route, so that’s what we’re taking today. Tickets are sold at exit number five of the Taichong high speed rail station. 南投縣埔里是在台灣好行的日月潭線上,所以現在我們要去搭台灣好行巴士,要到台中高鐵站五號出口的地方買票。 |
Can I have one of these please? 可以給我一個這個嗎? OK. When you get on and get off, scan this in the bus. 好。上下車的時候感應一下。 OK, thanks. 好,謝謝。 |
There are different ticket packages that you can get, we got the Easycard that includes the shuttle ride, ropeway, round-the-lake bus and a boat ride, and it was NT$710, which is a good deal. Taiwan Tourist Shuttles are buses that start at major transportation depots and make stops at popular tourist attractions, they’re quite convenient. 這裡有好幾種套票,我們選的這一個悠遊卡套票包含好行巴士,纜車,環潭公車,還有遊艇,總價710元,很划算。台灣好行是從各大車站接駁到主要觀光景點的巴士,很方便。 |
We got on at High Speed Rail Taichung Station, and this is the Sun Moon Lake station. 剛才我們在台中高鐵站上車,搭到這裡,日月潭站。 When you come to the “riyuetan” or Sun Moon Lake area, it's a good idea to start at the lake and branch out from here. 來這一帶玩,建議大家先到日月潭,再從這邊以放射狀的方式玩。 |
Nantou County, where we are right now, is in the middle of Taiwan, and is the only county in Taiwan that doesn’t border the ocean, but Nantou has an incredibly picturesque lake right in the middle of it. This is Sun Moon Lake. 這邊,南投縣位於台灣最中央的地區,是唯一不靠海的縣市,不過南投的最中央有一個非常漂亮的湖泊,這裡是日月潭。 |
On the Sun Moon Lake line, there are several places that you can go. In addition to the paper church, or "Paper Dome,” I also want to take you to a place where they still make paper by hand. 台灣好行日月潭線有好多地方可以去,今天除了紙教堂,我還想要帶大家到一家堅持繼續用手工做紙的工廠。 The best way to get to the paper factory is to take a taxi. 到紙工廠,最簡單的方式就是搭計程車。 |
Puli, Nantou in its heyday had 50 handmade paper factories and was the largest producer of paper in Asia. Part of the reason is because the water here is so clean. There aren’t that many factories left, but this one is still around and it’s open to visitors. 最盛時期,南投埔里有大約50家造紙廠,是亞洲最大的產紙區,其中一個原因是,埔里的水很清澈。現在只剩下幾家,像這一家還開放遊客參觀。 |
“Shougongzhi,” or handmade paper is made by collecting fibers diluted in water and plant resin, and drained through a screen. The fibers come from a variety of plants, including bark, hemp, rattan, grass and bamboo. Exactly how much of what goes into the mixture is a secret recipe that only the craftsmen know. Different materials create different effects for the writer or artist. 紙的傳統作法是用竹簾篩出纖維和植物膠混和製成的物質。纖維則來自不同的植物,包括樹皮,麻,藤,草,還有竹子。確切比例則是商業機密,這只有師傅們才知道。不同的配方做出來的紙都不一樣,會帶給書畫家不同的效果。 |
Looks like tofu, right? Well, it’s paper, and in the same way as fresh tofu, it needs to be pressed slowly, so that the water drains but not the fibers. 看起來像豆腐,對不對?這其實是紙,不過跟豆腐還有一個共同點,就是它需要經過慢慢壓榨,讓水慢慢流出,保留著纖維。 |
First the fibers are steamed and boiled, then soaked, bleached and stirred. Then the paper is formed, pressed, dried and finished. The entire process takes about a week. 製作過程是蒸煮,浸泡,漂白,打漿,抄紙,壓榨,乾燥,成紙。整個程序需要大約一個禮拜。 |
What really I like about this place is, not only do you get to see how things are made, you get to try it yourself, too. This won’t take a week, maybe just a couple of hours. 我很喜歡這裡,因為不只可以看見東西是怎麼做的,我們還可以親自去體驗。DIY部分不用到一個禮拜,一兩個小時就可以完成了。 |
And this is “zhi,” paper. Yay! 這就是紙。耶! |
Paper is said to have been invented in China as early as the second century, BC for padding and for wrapping things. Then people started using it for writing, for money, for wiping things. 紙,據說是在中國發明的,西元前一百多年就已經有人把它拿來做包裝。後來才開始被用來寫東西,做成鈔票,然後擦拭東西等等。 |
The materials that go into paper making can be quite interesting. For example this one was made with cow poop. No, I’m not eating cow poop. This is chocolate paper. It’s made with chocolate, fibers from an orange, carrots and shiso leaves. So we have paper poop, paper dessert. But what about paper church? How does that work? 紙的原料其實還蠻有趣的,像這張啊,裡面有牛便便。沒有啦,我不是在吃牛大便。這是巧克力紙,是用巧克力還有橘子,紅蘿蔔,紫蘇的纖維做的。所以我們有紙便便,紙點心,那紙教堂呢?紙教堂又是什麼樣? |
Here we are at Taomikeng, the Paper Dome stop. 我們現在來到了桃米坑,紙教堂這一站。 |
Smell those flowers! 哇,花好香喔! When I first heard about this “paper” church, I thought it’s probably just some regular old building perhaps decorated with locally handmade paper, because after all Puli is known for its handmade paper. But no, I was wrong. The structure is made of paper! It was designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban. 我第一次聽到紙教堂的時候,我想說可能就是一般的建築,然後裡面裝飾了一些附近手工紙工廠的東西,畢竟埔里手工紙很有名。結果我錯了,教堂的結構真的是紙做的。設計師是一位叫做板茂的日本建築師。 |
All 58 pillars that support the roof are made of paper. They look like giant kitchen paper tubes, but each can withstand 7000 kg of downward force. And these benches, they’re just smaller versions of the same thing. Fifteen to 20 people can sit on each of these at the same time. They’re strong, yet lightweight. See? At only 40 kg, two people can move a bench. 撐起屋頂的58根柱子都是紙做的。它們看起來像餐巾紙的紙管,不過每一支能夠支撐7000公斤的重量。長凳基本上就是柱子的縮小版,一次能坐15到20人。它很堅固卻很輕盈,你看。重量才40公斤,兩個人就能搬動它。 |
The Paper Dome or “zhijiaotang” was originally a temporary church in Kobe, Japan, built after the Great Hanshin Earthquake of 1994. The church later donated the building to this place, Puli, because Puli too suffered from a horrendous temblor in 1999, the Jiji Earthquake. 紙教堂原本是在日本神戶的一間臨時教堂,是在1994年阪神大地震之後蓋的。當地教會後來把教堂捐贈給埔里,因為埔里也曾經受過大地震襲擊,是921的重災區。 The donation of the Paper Dome was a sign of friendship and is now a place to share community rebuilding experiences. 紙教堂的捐贈象徵日本對台灣的友好,而這個空間也成為一個社區重建經驗分享的地方。 |
So the Paper Dome in Kobe was deconstructed, transported and then reassembled here in Puli. 神戶的紙教堂就這樣當地解體,搬運來埔里,然後重新組裝。 Who knew that paper could be such a strong material, for construction and for connecting people? 沒想到紙竟然能夠蓋房子,交朋友。真是令人大開眼界。 |
I can spend days and days in Sun Moon Lake. There are so many things to do here, it’s beautiful on so many levels. Also, I became engaged here so it has a very special place in my heart. I’m sure you will find it wonderful too. You should come. 來到日月潭,我可以待上好多好多天。這裡有各種好玩的東西,各種美麗的地方。加上我的好ㄤ在這裡跟我求婚,讓我心中的日月潭永遠都很特別。相信您來到這裡也會很喜歡。大家要來喔! |
民視新聞 翁郁容 彭柏勳 南投報導 |
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What do you do when you want to see the ocean and hear the crash of its waves when you're in Kaohsiung? Just hop on the MRT. Today I'm going to show you around Cijin.來到高雄,如果突然想看海景,聽浪聲,怎麼辦?搭上捷運就能夠到海邊啦。今天我要帶大家到旗津玩! |
I'm Michella. I grew up in the Silicon Valley and was a journalist in Taiwan for ten years. I like to run, grow hydroponic food and travel. I’m going to show you around the Taiwan that I know. I hope you’ll enjoy it as much as I do.我是米雪拉,在美國矽谷長大,回來台灣當了十年的新聞工作者,喜歡跑步,種水耕蔬菜,還有旅行。台灣好好玩,到底有多好玩,讓我和你分享。 |
We’re at Central Park Station, and in order to get to Cijin, we need to take the orange line to Sizihwan. There’s this special ticket set that you can get which includes the fare of the MRT and the ferry, and a discount on bike rentals, but I'm going to stick to my iPass, because it works on the MRT and at convenience stores. 這裡是高雄捷運中央公園站,到旗津呢,我們要搭橘線到西子灣。其實有個套票可以買,捷運票,船票,還有租腳踏車的折價券都包括在套票當中。不過,我要用我的一卡通,因為捷運,便利商店,也都能通。 |
If you get the package, this is the bike rental place that will give you a discount but there are lots of options to get around, including public bikes and electric scooters. 如果買套票,這家是配合活動的腳踏車租賃業者,其實還有很多其他的選擇,包括公共腳踏車,還有電動摩托車等等。 From here we take the ferry, which is just down the street. 從這裡呢,我們要去搭渡輪,這條街走到底就到了。 |
There’s one thing I especially enjoy about this boat ride is: it’s only just ten minutes long, there’s not enough time to get seasick. 這個船程有個地方我特別喜歡,就是它很短,才10分鐘,根本沒時間暈船。 |
“Qi” in Cijin means “flag,” and “jin” has to do with “water.” From the air, this little area of land looks like a flag, which were triangular in the old days. 旗津的「旗」是旗子的意思,「津」是跟水有關。鳥瞰旗津,像一面旗,古時候的旗,是三角形的。 From here, you can see the city and the harbor. I think it’s quite lovely. 從這裡可以看到市區和港口,我個人覺得蠻讚的。 |
This fort was built in the Qing dynasty to guard Kaohsiung. Over the years, the military also dug a network of tunnels. 旗後砲台是在清朝設立的,為的就是保護高雄。後來軍方在這裡也挖了四通八達的隧道。 It's so dark in here, really mysterious. I feel super adventurous today. This is great. 哇,這裡面好黑,好神祕。今天很有探險家精神。讚讚讚! This is an old bunker, soldiers used to look out through here and see if enemy is approaching. Da-da-da-da-da-da. Maybe. Maybe not. 這裡以前是碉堡,阿兵哥就從這邊看是不是有敵人要上來了。然後就噠噠噠噠噠噠。或許。或許不是。哈哈哈。 |
Cijin is where it all began for Kaohsiung. This is where explorers from China first came and settled. In fact, this was the point of entry for a lot of people, including missionaries, who brought not only Western religion, but modern medicine as well. The first church and hospital in Taiwan were here in Cijin. 旗津是高雄的發源地,以前中國人來到南台灣開墾,就是從這裡開始。其實早期很多外國人也是從高雄進來台灣,包括傳教師,而這些傳教師不但帶來西方的宗教,還有現代醫學。台灣第一間教堂和第一間西醫院都在旗津。 |
Mm, refreshing. This is how people in Kaohsiung and in Tainan eat tomatoes: raw, with a thick, sweet soy sauce, grated ginger and sugar. Let’s call that “salad.” 好爽口~ 高雄和台南人都這樣吃番茄,配甜甜稠稠的醬油膏,薑末,還有砂糖。我們就叫這個「沙拉」吧。 |
A lot of people come to Cijin and they have seafood, but you don't need me for that. I want to show you a fish noodle place I recently discovered. The noodles are made of fish meat, 98% fish meat, and the rest is just a little bit of flour to keep the fish meat noodles from sticking together. It’s really different. Really interesting. And I think quite good. 很多人到旗津的時候都會跑去吃海產,這就不用我帶大家去了。今天我想帶你去的地方是一家我最近發現的魚麵店。麵條是98%魚肉做的,其他就是一點麵粉,讓魚肉麵條不黏在一起。很不一樣,很有趣,我覺得不錯吃。 Quite thick and al dente. And healthy too because the protein and fiber content is higher than that of regular noodles. 厚厚QQ的。而且健康,因為蛋白質和纖維比例比起一般麵,還要高。 Right after they’re made, they’re put in the freezer, so there isn’ that overpowering fishy smell that reminds me of stinky socks. This is good. I like. 因為麵一做好就放冷凍庫,沒有那種會讓人想起「臭腳燒」的魚腥味。這個好吃。我喜歡~ |
This is the Pier 2 Art Center, also within walking distance from Sihziwan Station. 這裡是駁二藝術特區,也是西子灣車站出來走路就能到的地方。 I like Kaohsiung because it’s a big city, yet it’s laid back. There are big department stores, and yet there are lots of open spaces with history, culture and nature. It’s quite nice. You should come. 我喜歡高雄,因為它是個大都市,但感覺蠻放鬆的。這裡有很大的百貨公司,但也有很空曠的空間,有歷史,有文化,有大自然。很棒。大家要來喔~ |
民視新聞 翁郁容 彭柏勳 高雄報導
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Episode info: We visited Sun Moon Lake, the Paper Dome and the Guangxing paper factory 廣興紙寮. It's a popular destination so there are so many options for ticket packages that it's confusing. If you want the package to include roundtrip tickets on the high speed rail, you need to buy it through 7-11's ibon kiosk. The HSR package includes roundtrip tickets on the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Sun Moon Lake line and boat tickets. You can add gondola (they call it "ropeway" in Nantou) tickets and admission to the Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village at a discount at the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle counter of the Taichung HSR station. Or you can do what we did and start at the Taichung HSR station and buy one of the other packages from there (again, more options, options options options). |
To get to Guangxing, you can take the local bus, rent a car at Sun Moon Lake (which is not a bad option if you want to explore the area, which is quite big), or take a taxi.
Pros and cons of:
Taking the local bus: cheap, but you have to walk probably 30-40 minutes uphill from the nearest stop, and there is very little if any English service on those buses.
Renting a car: expensive but you are free to go wherever you want, effortlessly.
Taking a taxi: expensive if you don't have anyone to share the ride with (apparently they don't go by the meter there. The driver charged us NT$600 one way. A bit steep, but if you split it with other travelers, it's not so bad), gets you there fast
You should probably call or have someone who speaks Chinese to call ahead to make a reservation for you. They'll give you a tour of the place and give you a paper making workshop for a small fee (there are several projects to choose from, I wanted to do all of them...). The paper factory was a lot of fun for me. I went home with some paper for my mom who likes to do Chinese calligraphy and for myself for future woodblock printing projects. If you like arts and crafts and seeing how things are made, expect to spend half a day there. If you're not into that kind of thing, it might not be worth the trouble to go all the way out there.
The Paper Dome has a stop on the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Sun Moon Lake Line and I recommend going in the afternoon so you can walk around the area (they have ponds, lilies, frogs, butterflies, lots of nature), take a look at how the Paper Dome works, watch a presentation (in Chinese) about the dome, and then when it starts getting dark, enjoy the blue light in the sky, the colorful lights projected onto the dome, and the reflection of it all from one of the ponds. If you run of of things to do while waiting for it to get dark, read a book while listening to the frogs and insects prepare for bed. It's quite soothing. I did some writing while we were there. Oh, make sure to bring bug spray.
As for what to eat there, it can be a little tricky. The food at the nicer hotels can't go wrong, but it's pricey. Cheap and tasty food for some reason is difficult to find there. If you go out to Puli, there is a lot more to choose from.
On this trip, we stayed at Sun Moon Lake Teacher's Hostel, which is open to everyone but gives special discounts to teachers, government workers and military workers in Taiwan. There wasn't wifi in our crew's rooms (we stayed in the old building) but perhaps in their new buildings they have it. The view from our rooms were amazing. We were right by the lake.
There are lots of hotels at Sun Moon Lake and some are very nice, including Lalu and Wen Wan. Fuli and Fleur de Chine are a couple that I've been to and don't mind going back to again if we get the chance.
I've been to Sun Moon Lake at least 10 times now and I'm still not tired of it. You should come!
Wardrobe and accessories:
Kotipesa overalls (smart casual)
Martian smartwatch (smart with design)
Boosted Board (fun fun fun)
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本集資訊:
這一次到日月潭,我們主要去了紙教堂Paper Dome和廣興紙寮。日月潭是個很熱門的景點,感覺套票多到令人眼花撩亂。影片中我們是從台中高鐵站買好行和日月潭一些設施的套票(光這裡的票種就有三個還四個),不過其實從高鐵這一段也有套票,不過要到7-11透過ibon買,基本包含75折的高鐵來回車票,台灣好行車票,船票,不過到了台中高鐵站的台灣好行櫃檯,還可以以折扣價錢加九族文化村Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village和日月潭纜車的票。反正套票種類多到有一點寧願選擇少一點的感覺,往好處想,很多優惠方案,哈~ 到了日月潭,其實我都會卡住,不想去別的地方了。它就是好美!不管心情多糟,看到那裡的胡光山水就好放鬆。日月潭周遭有好多可以玩的地方,有好多散步,爬山步道,那條超世界有名的水上腳踏車道,廣告和婚紗裡面常出現的象山遊客中心,能讓採茶烘茶製茶的觀光茶園,景色漂亮的飯店....說不完,玩不完。任何路(anyway),我們這次主要挑了廣興紙寮和紙教堂介紹給大家。 廣興紙寮的交通比較複雜,因為好行沒停。可以搭南投客運其他公車,在日月潭租車,或是坐計程車。公車的好處是便宜,缺點是下車後還要走半小時路,而且上坡,然後很可能會迷路,建議帶個電動滑板之類的。租車的話有點貴,不過很自由。搭計程車的話,如果跟其他人分攤那一趟600元(不跳表,直接講價)的錢就還好,而且很快就到了。去廣興紙寮前,建議先打電話預約,因為那邊會有人導覽,還有教你DIY(收費很合理,不同DIY有不同價錢,差不多200起跳)。老實說我很想玩他們所有的DIY,但會拍不完,回不了家。最後我只做紙張和拓印,然後買了宣紙給愛寫書法的翁奶奶,還有給自己以後做版畫用。我個人在那邊玩得很開心,可以玩半天以上,不過你如果對DIY和沒什麼興趣,不想了解紙張是怎麼做的,可以把這整段行程刪除,因為真的有點遠,然後除了紙以外,沒別的了。 紙教堂,台灣好行巴士有停,我建議大家下午去,先在園區看看走走,裡面有池子,蓮花,青蛙,花,蝴蝶等等可以欣賞。紙教堂定時會有解說員到裡面跟大家介紹它是怎麼做的,怎麼來的。快天黑的時候是個拍照的好時刻,天色藍藍的,加上紙教堂繽紛的燈光和水池的倒影,蠻漂亮的。如果距離天黑還有一段時間,可以讀本書,聽青蛙們準備晚餐的聲音,還蠻療癒的。千萬要記得帶防蚊液。 至於吃的呢,比較傷腦筋一點。好飯店的菜都很不錯,不過就是比較貴。很難找到市區那種便宜又好吃的東西,所以我們都往埔里鬧區走,那邊選擇就很多。 這一次的飯店,我們訂在教師會館Sun Moon Lake Teacher's Hostel,軍公教有特別的優惠。我們住的是比較舊的那一棟,所以房間沒有wifi,或許其他新的兩棟有。雖然比較舊,但風景很棒,就在湖畔,很漂亮。 日月潭有好多飯店,有些很高級,像涵碧樓Lalu和日月行館Wen Wan。我去過馥麗Fuli和雲品Fleur de Chine,這兩家不錯,有機會還想再去住! 我去過日月潭至少10次了,但完全不會覺得膩。還想再去!You should come~ 服裝與配件: Kotipesa 連身褲 (我覺得很可愛~) Martian 智慧型手錶 (又有智慧又有設計感) Boosted Board (兩個字:好玩) |
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