Monday, 12 October 2015

Info on episode 6: 台南孔廟 Tainan Confucius Temple


Time for Taiwan 2015-2016, Episode 6: Confucius Temple, Tainan...
Time for Taiwan 2015-2016, Episode 6: Confucius Temple, Tainan2015-2016年「台灣好好玩」第六集:台南孔廟 漫步旅行 (deluxe edit)Transcipt 文字稿:Welcome to Tainan, the oldest city of Taiwan. Here you'll find the oldest public school, which is housed inside the oldest Confucius Temple or “kongmiao,” on the island.歡迎來到台南,台灣最老的城市,這裡也有全台最老的公立學校,這間學校位於台灣最老的孔廟裡面。I want to take you on a walking tour today. But we can cheat a little and take the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle, 88 Anping Route part of the way.今天我要帶大家漫步旅行,不過有一些地方我們可以搭台灣好行88安平線,偷個懶。You can use an Easycard or iPass to tag on and off the bus, and the fare is NT$18 or NT$36 depending on how far you go. You can buy and charge these at convenience stores.車資可以用悠遊卡或一卡通感應付費,每一趟才18元或36元,看你坐多遠。悠遊卡和一卡通可以在便利商店購買和儲值。We're at Tainan Train Station and Confucius Temple is here.這裡是台南火車站,孔廟在那裡。Taiwan Tourist Shuttles are great, they take you to tourist attractions. If you don't know where you want to go, get a brochure and figure it out on the bus.台灣好行真的很棒,它會直接載你到觀光景點。沒做功課也沒關係,拿個DM,然後上車研究就好了。Today's theme is "oldest in Taiwan," and I want to bring you to the oldest Confucian Temple, the oldest public school, the oldest department store, then to one of the oldest and most nostalgic streets in Tainan.今天的主題是「台灣最早,台灣最老」,我要帶大家到台灣最早的孔廟,最早官方設立的學校,然後再到台灣最老的百貨公司,最後再去一條很有古早味的巷子。This is Confucius Temple, which has a three-star Michelin Green Guide rating, which means you probably don’t want to miss it. This place has a special meaning to me. I’ll tell you about it later.這裡是孔廟,它擁有米其林綠色旅遊三顆星的評鑑,意思是,錯過可能會後悔。其實這裡呢,對我有個特別的意義,待會兒跟大家講。Tainan was once a Dutch colony used for trade, but after Koxinga, a Chinese official, drove them out in 1661, the Chinese government decided to develop the area. To foster culture and education, they built this Confucian temple and schoolhouse in 1665.台南曾經是荷蘭人為了做貿易的殖民地,鄭成功將他們趕走之後,中國決定將台南好好發展,而為了推廣教育,官方在1665年蓋了這間孔廟和學堂。These are mortuary tablets of some of Confucius’ most famous students. Intellect was considered to be quite holy.這是孔子一些知名弟子的牌位。智慧是非常神聖的。When Confucius was still alive, in the 400-500’s BC, he told his students, when I die, do not worship me, for I am just a teacher. But students often don’t do what they’re told, do they?孔子還活著的時候,大約西元前四五百年,他跟他的學生說,我死了之後不要祭拜我,因為我只是個老師。但是學生從來不聽老師話...Schoolhouses were often attached to Confucian temples. This school was more like a college or a graduate school.古時候,學堂經常蓋在孔廟裡面或旁邊。這間學堂的層級比較像現在的大學,或研究所。Earlier I said that this particular Confucian Temple has special meaning to me. In 1915 my great-grandparents on my godmother’s side were married here, in this classroom. And turning tradition completely on its head, they decided to come to the wedding in a tuxedo and a Western wedding dress. I guess rebelliousness runs in the family.剛才我說這間孔廟對我來說,有特別的意義。1915年,我的乾曾祖父母的婚禮,是在這間學堂舉行的。他們顛覆傳統,決定穿西方的白紗和燕尾服,而不是傳統中國的長袍馬褂。看來姓翁的人,都很有自己的想法。I love this area. You can eat your way through to your next destination. Over there is where you can get fresh cut fruit and just a few doors down is where you can get steamed meatballs. I’m going to get this, meat buns. These are really, really good.我好喜歡這一區,可以從頭吃到尾。那邊有冰果室,隔壁幾家有肉圓,我呢,來吃個包子好了。這好好吃喔。Next let’s walk over to Hayashi Department Store, the oldest remaining department store in Taiwan. It was opened during the Japanese occupation in 1932 by a Japanese businessman named “Houichi Hayashi.”接下來我們散步到林百貨,台灣最老,目前還有在營業的百貨。林百貨是在1932年日治時代,由一位叫做林方一的日本人創辦的。There are six stories here and it was the tallest and perhaps even the most decadent building in Tainan at the time.六層樓高,這裡當時可是最高,也可能是台南最華麗的一棟大樓。In the 1930’s, popular music started to pick up, people started going out dancing, and department stores started popping up here and there. I think it was pretty good times.1930年代,大家開始聽台語流行音樂,開始流行跳舞,百貨公司也開始一間間的開張,可以說是一個繁榮美好的時代。But WWII broke out in the 40’s and Tainan was heavily bombed by the Americans.不過1940年代發生二次世界大戰,台南則被美軍轟炸得相當嚴重。You can still see some of the bullet holes left by attack aircraft. Eventually Japan lost the war and they left Taiwan. But this was still the tallest building around, when the KMT came, they decided to install 50 anti-aircraft machine guns on the roof. A couple of (the machine gun) posts from those days are still here. That one, and this one.這邊還可以看當時戰機襲擊留下的彈孔。後來日本敗戰,撤出台灣。不過因為林百貨是當時最高的建築物,國民黨軍隊決定在屋頂設立防空機關槍,現在還看得到幾個機關槍座,那邊有一個,這邊也有一個。And one more in the middle of the Japanese shrine.神社中間還有一個。This building was left quite damaged, then used by various government offices over the years and abandoned until it was restored to its former glory and finally reopened in 2014. It’s a nice place now. I personally like it.林百貨的建築主體受到不小的打擊,而經過好幾個政府單位輪流使用空間,然後閒置多年,終於在2014年完整修復,重新開幕。現在這地方不錯,我個人蠻喜歡的。Now we’re headed for “Shennong Jie,” Shennong Street, where it’s especially nostalgic at night. The area was kind of like Venice, where there are canals that people went up and down in small boats.接著我們要到神農街,這裡晚上特別懷舊喔~以前這裡有點像威尼斯,有好幾條水道,可以看到民眾坐著船,划來划去。This was one of the five canals that used to be here.這裡曾經是五條水路其中一條。Boats would bring in goods like cloth, or Chinese herbal medicine, or perhaps dried food ingredients to the backdoor of these buildings. The merchandise would then be brought to the front of the building where the shop is, to be sold.當時小船就載著布料,中藥材,南北貨等等,到後門卸貨,再把貨品搬到前面的店鋪來販售。When you look at these buildings from the front, nothing seems out of the ordinary, but from the side, you’ll notice that they’re really, really long.這些房子,從正面看,感覺蠻正常的,不過從側面看,你會發現它很長很長。Families needed the space to live, to store inventory, and to do business in the storefront. Seventy meters - this was one house. Wow.這些空間包含一個家庭住的地方,儲藏貨物的空間,還有店面。一棟房子70公尺長耶,哇塞!This are used to be a very busy business district, but now it’s developing into a quiet, cafe, artsy sort of area. Might not seem like much during the day, but makes for a nice after dinner stroll.這裡曾經是個很熱鬧的貿易區,現在發展為一個寧靜的咖啡和文創產品店的小區域,白天不是很起眼,但非常適合晚餐後的散步。Tainan is one of those places that I keep coming back to. It keeps reinventing itself, but bringing back some of the history which has been lost. The wonderful thing about traveling here is that most of the places you’d want to go are within walking distance, and with the tourist shuttle bus, you can save time and go even further. I love Tainan and you might too. You should come.感覺我還蠻常來台南的,每次來都有一些不一樣,不過在這些變化當中會找回部分消失的歷史。來這邊玩,我覺得很棒的是,很多想去的地方,走路就可以到。加上台灣好行,又可以省時間,甚至跑更遠。我超愛台南的,或許你也會愛上它。大家要來喔。--------------------------------------------------------------------------------Tainan is one of my favorite places to go, and one of my favorite destinations on private trips. Transportation is easy: bullet train down from Taipei, and taxi/cycle/bus within the city. Accommodations is easy: lots of decent hotels from 2000 and up. Food is easy and really tasty: food everywhere and nearly all delicious. People are easy: usually super friendly.我超喜歡台南的,常因為工作去台南,不過自己有時候也會去玩。從台北到台南,搭高鐵就能到。台南市區內可以搭計程車,公車,或騎腳踏車。住宿有很多選擇,2000元以上的飯店都還算可以。吃的很好找,幾乎隨便一家都很好吃。人也通常很親切。In this episode, we took the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Anping 88 Route from the Tainan Train Station. There are packages available, but with no English support, so I spared everyone the details in the video. But if you want the package, you get it through 7-11’s ibon kiosk. The easiest way (without paying that much more money) really is by using an iPass/Easycard, and it’s NT$18 or NT$36 depending on how far you go. Most of the things to do/see are concentrated downtown and mostly walkable. A lot of hotels will have bicycles that you can borrow, so that’s really convenient, too. I wasn’t too comfortable about riding my skateboard there. All the streets seemed to have a lot of cars and scooters, and people down there don’t exactly heed traffic signals. To seriously a lot of people, green is go straight and red is turn left or right!這一集,我們從台南火車站搭台灣好行88安平線到孔廟和神農街。88安平線有套票,要透過7-11的ibon買,不過只有中文介面,店員也不見得會講英文,所以不會中文的朋友自己來的話,建議直接用一卡通或悠遊卡,反正沒有很貴,一段18塊,兩段才36塊。很多景點集中在市區,所以很多地方走路就可以到。很多飯店都有腳踏車可以借,也是個選擇。本來想說把電動滑板帶下去,但覺得台南馬路很恐怖,很多人都綠燈直走,紅燈轉彎,嚇死人了。我抓不到他們的節奏,想說算了,滑板放家裡。We started at Tainan Station and took the tourist shuttle to Confucius Temple. You can budget about an hour or less there. Across the street are some great places. Exit the main gate and diagonally across on the right is a cafe called Zhaimen 窄門 meaning “narrow gate/door” overlooking the temple, but the entrance is hidden at the side of the building. To get to the entrance, you have to squeeze through two buildings, and most people have to turn sideways and suck in their stomach to get through the narrowest part, which is right at the street. It’s fun. Once you get through, it’s on your left, and you have to go upstairs to the second floor. It’s an old house that belonged to a Japanese doctor, I believe, during the occupation. Now it’s just a cafe with creaky floors and nostalgic decor. I wanted to show my friend Cedric, but when we went and popped our heads in the cafe, the young man at the counter didn’t seem very happy for us to be “disturbing” them. I said I just wanted to show my friend the place so maybe when he comes next time he can bring his family, but the young man's face kind of showed “you better sit down and order something or get out of here.” Makes me not want to go ever again, but that’s another issue.我們從台南火車站出發,搭了台灣好行巴士到孔廟。自己逛的話,孔廟一小時就夠了。孔廟對面有幾間有趣的店,包括正門右邊斜對面有一間窄門咖啡,從他們二樓靠窗桌可以看到孔廟,不過有趣的是他們的入口,要側身,甚至側身再把肚子吸進去才過得去。我記得有人說這裡曾經是一位日本醫師的房子。現在就是一家懷舊的咖啡廳,地板還會吱吱叫。比較可惜的是,那天沒什麼時間,不過我想帶我朋友Cedric去看一下,改天他才知道怎麼去。服務生一副妳要嘛就消費,要嘛就不要打擾我們的樣子。這樣以後人家怎麼會想再去?任何路...(anyway)A few doors down from the cafe is a supermarket with the best meat buns. They have lots of flavors, but I like the original with pork, mushrooms, a little bit of spring onion, pepper and a salted duck egg yolk. Sometimes I buy a bunch, freeze them and steam them for breakfast. Across the street is Lili Fruits 莉莉水果店 where they sell high quality, fresh cut fruits and juices. I love that place. If you like steamed meatballs coated in a thick, glutinous rice covering, 20 meters down from Lili is a small meatball restaurant. It’s quite famous, a lot of people (my husband included) like it, but I find it just OK.窄門再過去一點有一間克林超市,超市有個買包子的窗口,這裡的包子好好吃~ 我最喜歡吃原味,就是八寶包,裡面有豬肉,香菇,一點蔥,黑胡椒, 鴨蛋黃。有時候我會買一兩盒凍起來,早上放電鍋,配一杯豆漿,就是個超棒的早餐。肉包店的10點中方向是莉莉水果店,這裡有高品質的新鮮水果,冰,和果汁。莉莉的隔壁幾家有肉圓店,蒸的,很嫩,歪嘴雞好ㄤ說好吃。From there we walked to Hayashi Department Store, renovated, reopened and geared towards a younger crowd with a focus on industrial design. A lot of the items there are fun and interesting and make great gifts. I bought my new hat there. There are a couple of cafes in Hayashi with lots of natural light, and I find that quite enjoyable. Not to be missed are the bullet holes left on display and the Japanese shrine (to help with harvests/business) on the roof. You might want to avoid going to Hayashi on a weekend, though, because they limit the number of people that can enter the building for safety reasons. Go on a weekday or during a meal time so you can avoid the crowd and the line.從孔廟,我們走路到林百貨。建議大家平日來這裡,否則碰到人潮,得在外面排隊。可能老建築結構比較脆弱,所以有限制入館的人數。人多的時候,有人出來,才能有人進去。感覺林百貨裡面大部分客人都是走馬看花的遊覽車遊客,還有來約會的年輕人。裡面的產品有台灣較精緻的農產品,手工服飾(帆布包當然也不可少),其他文創產品,比較有設計感的一些東西。去勘景時,我們逛了很久,覺得有很多好玩的東西,很適合送禮(給年輕朋友),我自己也買了一頂帽子。林百貨裡面的兩間咖啡廳的氣氛也不錯,都有大面玻璃窗。它的頂樓也很有看頭,有招財神的日本神社,也有當時空襲留下來的彈孔。以前有彈孔的地方更多,但整修時,為了安全,幾乎都拆掉了。After Hayashi, we went to Shennong Street 神農街 where it’s nicer at night. If you go during the day, you can kind of appreciate the history (canals, long houses), but it looks really dirty, old and dilapidated. At night when the street lights/lanterns light up, it becomes magical. And that was the end of our tour.林百貨之後,我們回到好行路線,搭車到神農街。建議這裡晚上來,白天感覺破破的,晚上燈點亮之後就很有氣氛,感覺宮崎駿可以來這裡取景。以上是米雪拉這次的漫遊行程~It’s always nice if you can get a guide to tell you the stories and facts of what you’re looking at. Tainan City Hall has tours that you can sign up for. I think they’re only in Chinese right now, but if you have a translator with you, that works too.建議大家出去玩,盡量找解說員,玩起來比較有意義,印象也比較深刻,難忘。台南市政府有導覽解說的服務: http://tour.tainan.gov.tw/Activity/(S(vdaxmv55nbjsoanvwnwkj545))/chinese/ApplicationList.aspxWe’ve been staying at Wei-Yat Hotel on these last few trips to Tainan. They accommodate our budget and we really appreciate it. The hotel is a bit old, but the rooms are very decent and the service is good. It’s right by Anping Canal, which I like. I can see crews rowing on it in the mornings and sometimes in the evenings. It brings back wonderful memories of my rowing days in college. Across the river is a beef soup restaurant called Wenzhang “文章.” The establishment is not exactly squeaky clean, but the beef soup is very tasty. I like their food, but I prefer it to go. Another restaurant close by is Akasushi/chishousi 赤壽司, a Japanese place. We sat at the counter, and it was a nice experience. A place to revisit the next time we stay at Wei-Yat.我們最近都住在維悅,很感謝飯店能夠配合我們的預算。維悅有一點歷史了,不過房間和服務都很不錯,地點也很好,在安平運河旁,早上和晚上都有人在練西式划船,讓我想到我大學划船,酸甜苦辣的回憶。飯店斜對面,運河的另外一邊有一家文章牛肉湯,距離「乾淨,舒適」有點距離,但牛肉湯很好喝。如果要再去吃,我會外帶回飯店慢慢享用。還有另外一間附近的餐廳,赤壽司,這裡就比較乾淨了,也好吃,這家絕對還有下一次。These are reasonably priced and clean business hotels that we’ve stayed at in Tainan: Kindness, Kiwi. If Wei-Yat isn’t available, I don’t mind going back to Kindness and Kiwi, whose walls are paper thin, but the guests are usually decent and don’t make too much noise. What I find makes the most noise are the water lines in the ceiling and walls. They sound like waterfalls sometimes.台南有好幾間廉價的商務旅館,我們住過康橋,奇異果。如果維悅沒空房,這兩家就是備案。優點是便宜,平日定價大概2000以內吧,缺點是隔音很差,水聲很大聲,感覺水將從和牆壁,天花板爆衝出來。房客水準比較不複雜,很多是出差的人,其實陸客也不少,但不會太吵。There are lots of B&B’s in Tainan, and some of them are quite interestingly and nicely decorated. Sometimes nice decor doesn’t translate to comfort, and in many cases in Tainan, don’t translate to safe and legal. You’ll notice that a lot of B&B’s don’t have signs, and that’s because they’re not registered (or can’t be registered). Once they put a B&B sign out, the authorities come and write them a ticket for operating business without a permit. Sometimes laws and regulations aren’t reasonable or are way out of date, but I personally feel more at ease when the place I’m staying in is legal, which means it at least has passed fire and other safety regulations. For a while, I was really interested in B&B’s, but I find that hotels are generally much more comfortable and the level of quality can be expected. Oftentimes, the price is about the same for hotels and B&B’s, so the obvious choice for me is hotel.台南有很多民宿,很多都很有特色,不過舒適不舒適,安全不安全,就另外一回事了。很多民宿有看板,因為不合法,看板一擺出,可能就被開單了。不合法有很多原因,可能安檢沒通過,可能現在的規定無法讓他們營業,有很多可能。或許一些法律不合裡,但對我來說,有掛牌營業的地方比較有保障,所以我現在都盡量住飯店,通常飯店也比較舒適,畢竟飯店這方面比較有經驗。Links:Hayashi Department Store 林百貨 http://www.hayashi.com.twWei Yat Hotel 維悅飯店 www.weiyat-hotel.com/Akasushi/chishousi 赤壽司 https://www.facebook.com/Tainan.AkasushiWardrobe & Accessories 服裝與配件:Watch: Martian摩絢錶 http://www.martianwatches.com.tw/tw/index.asp?au_id=17&sub_id=48Shirt: kotipesä http://kotipesa.comShorts: Uniqlo Taiwan http://www.uniqlo.comShoes: Rucoline http://www.rucoline.com
Posted by FTV Time for Taiwan on Monday, October 12, 2015

Time for Taiwan 2015-2016, Episode 6: Confucius Temple, Tainan
2015-2016年「台灣好好玩」第六集:台南孔廟 漫步旅行


Transcipt 文字稿:


Welcome to Tainan, the oldest city of Taiwan. Here you'll find the oldest public school, which is housed inside the oldest Confucius Temple or “kongmiao,” on the island.歡迎來到台南,台灣最老的城市,這裡也有全台最老的公立學校,這間學校位於台灣最老的孔廟裡面。


I want to take you on a walking tour today. But we can cheat a little and take the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle, 88 Anping Route part of the way.今天我要帶大家漫步旅行,不過有一些地方我們可以搭台灣好行88安平線,偷個懶。


You can use an Easycard or iPass to tag on and off the bus, and the fare is NT$18 or NT$36 depending on how far you go. You can buy and charge these at convenience stores.車資可以用悠遊卡或一卡通感應付費,每一趟才18元或36元,看你坐多遠。悠遊卡和一卡通可以在便利商店購買和儲值。


We're at Tainan Train Station and Confucius Temple is here.這裡是台南火車站,孔廟在那裡。


Taiwan Tourist Shuttles are great, they take you to tourist attractions. If you don't know where you want to go, get a brochure and figure it out on the bus.台灣好行真的很棒,它會直接載你到觀光景點。沒做功課也沒關係,拿個DM,然後上車研究就好了。


Today's theme is "oldest in Taiwan," and I want to bring you to the oldest Confucian Temple, the oldest public school, the oldest department store, then to one of the oldest and most nostalgic streets in Tainan.今天的主題是「台灣最早,台灣最老」,我要帶大家到台灣最早的孔廟,最早官方設立的學校,然後再到台灣最老的百貨公司,最後再去一條很有古早味的巷子。


This is Confucius Temple, which has a three-star Michelin Green Guide rating, which means you probably don’t want to miss it. This place has a special meaning to me. I’ll tell you about it later.這裡是孔廟,它擁有米其林綠色旅遊三顆星的評鑑,意思是,錯過可能會後悔。其實這裡呢,對我有個特別的意義,待會兒跟大家講。


Tainan was once a Dutch colony used for trade, but after Koxinga, a Chinese official, drove them out in 1661, the Chinese government decided to develop the area. To foster culture and education, they built this Confucian temple and schoolhouse in 1665.台南曾經是荷蘭人為了做貿易的殖民地,鄭成功將他們趕走之後,中國決定將台南好好發展,而為了推廣教育,官方在1665年蓋了這間孔廟和學堂。


These are mortuary tablets of some of Confucius’ most famous students. Intellect was considered to be quite holy.這是孔子一些知名弟子的牌位。智慧是非常神聖的。


When Confucius was still alive, in the 400-500’s BC, he told his students, when I die, do not worship me, for I am just a teacher. But students often don’t do what they’re told, do they?孔子還活著的時候,大約西元前四五百年,他跟他的學生說,我死了之後不要祭拜我,因為我只是個老師。但是學生從來不聽老師話...


Schoolhouses were often attached to Confucian temples. This school was more like a college or a graduate school.古時候,學堂經常蓋在孔廟裡面或旁邊。這間學堂的層級比較像現在的大學,或研究所。


Earlier I said that this particular Confucian Temple has special meaning to me. In 1915 my great-grandparents on my godmother’s side were married here, in this classroom. And turning tradition completely on its head, they decided to come to the wedding in a tuxedo and a Western wedding dress. I guess rebelliousness runs in the family.剛才我說這間孔廟對我來說,有特別的意義。1915年,我的乾曾祖父母的婚禮,是在這間學堂舉行的。他們顛覆傳統,決定穿西方的白紗和燕尾服,而不是傳統中國的長袍馬褂。看來姓翁的人,都很有自己的想法。


I love this area. You can eat your way through to your next destination. Over there is where you can get fresh cut fruit and just a few doors down is where you can get steamed meatballs. I’m going to get this, meat buns. These are really, really good.我好喜歡這一區,可以從頭吃到尾。那邊有冰果室,隔壁幾家有肉圓,我呢,來吃個包子好了。這好好吃喔。


Next let’s walk over to Hayashi Department Store, the oldest remaining department store in Taiwan. It was opened during the Japanese occupation in 1932 by a Japanese businessman named “Houichi Hayashi.”接下來我們散步到林百貨,台灣最老,目前還有在營業的百貨。林百貨是在1932年日治時代,由一位叫做林方一的日本人創辦的。


There are six stories here and it was the tallest and perhaps even the most decadent building in Tainan at the time.六層樓高,這裡當時可是最高,也可能是台南最華麗的一棟大樓。


In the 1930’s, popular music started to pick up, people started going out dancing, and department stores started popping up here and there. I think it was pretty good times.1930年代,大家開始聽台語流行音樂,開始流行跳舞,百貨公司也開始一間間的開張,可以說是一個繁榮美好的時代。
But WWII broke out in the 40’s and Tainan was heavily bombed by the Americans.

不過1940年代發生二次世界大戰,台南則被美軍轟炸得相當嚴重。
You can still see some of the bullet holes left by attack aircraft. Eventually Japan lost the war and they left Taiwan. But this was still the tallest building around, when the KMT came, they decided to install 50 anti-aircraft machine guns on the roof. A couple of (the machine gun) posts from those days are still here. That one, and this one.這邊還可以看當時戰機襲擊留下的彈孔。後來日本敗戰,撤出台灣。不過因為林百貨是當時最高的建築物,國民黨軍隊決定在屋頂設立防空機關槍,現在還看得到幾個機關槍座,那邊有一個,這邊也有一個。


And one more in the middle of the Japanese shrine.神社中間還有一個。


This building was left quite damaged, then used by various government offices over the years and abandoned until it was restored to its former glory and finally reopened in 2014. It’s a nice place now. I personally like it.林百貨的建築主體受到不小的打擊,而經過好幾個政府單位輪流使用空間,然後閒置多年,終於在2014年完整修復,重新開幕。現在這地方不錯,我個人蠻喜歡的。


Now we’re headed for “Shennong Jie,” Shennong Street, where it’s especially nostalgic at night. The area was kind of like Venice, where there are canals that people went up and down in small boats.接著我們要到神農街,這裡晚上特別懷舊喔~以前這裡有點像威尼斯,有好幾條水道,可以看到民眾坐著船,划來划去。


This was one of the five canals that used to be here.這裡曾經是五條水路其中一條。


Boats would bring in goods like cloth, or Chinese herbal medicine, or perhaps dried food ingredients to the backdoor of these buildings. The merchandise would then be brought to the front of the building where the shop is, to be sold.當時小船就載著布料,中藥材,南北貨等等,到後門卸貨,再把貨品搬到前面的店鋪來販售。


When you look at these buildings from the front, nothing seems out of the ordinary, but from the side, you’ll notice that they’re really, really long.這些房子,從正面看,感覺蠻正常的,不過從側面看,你會發現它很長很長。
Families needed the space to live, to store inventory, and to do business in the storefront. Seventy meters - this was one house. Wow.這些空間包含一個家庭住的地方,儲藏貨物的空間,還有店面。一棟房子70公尺長耶,哇塞!


This are used to be a very busy business district, but now it’s developing into a quiet, cafe, artsy sort of area. Might not seem like much during the day, but makes for a nice after dinner stroll.這裡曾經是個很熱鬧的貿易區,現在發展為一個寧靜的咖啡和文創產品店的小區域,白天不是很起眼,但非常適合晚餐後的散步。


Tainan is one of those places that I keep coming back to. It keeps reinventing itself, but bringing back some of the history which has been lost. The wonderful thing about traveling here is that most of the places you’d want to go are within walking distance, and with the tourist shuttle bus, you can save time and go even further. I love Tainan and you might too. You should come.感覺我還蠻常來台南的,每次來都有一些不一樣,不過在這些變化當中會找回部分消失的歷史。來這邊玩,我覺得很棒的是,很多想去的地方,走路就可以到。加上台灣好行,又可以省時間,甚至跑更遠。我超愛台南的,或許你也會愛上它。大家要來喔。

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Tainan is one of my favorite places to go, and one of my favorite destinations on private trips. Transportation is easy: bullet train down from Taipei, and taxi/cycle/bus within the city. Accommodations is easy: lots of decent hotels from 2000 and up. Food is easy and really tasty: food everywhere and nearly all delicious. People are easy: usually super friendly.我超喜歡台南的,常因為工作去台南,不過自己有時候也會去玩。從台北到台南,搭高鐵就能到。台南市區內可以搭計程車,公車,或騎腳踏車。住宿有很多選擇,2000元以上的飯店都還算可以。吃的很好找,幾乎隨便一家都很好吃。人也通常很親切。


In this episode, we took the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Anping 88 Route from the Tainan Train Station. There are packages available, but with no English support, so I spared everyone the details in the video. But if you want the package, you get it through 7-11’s ibon kiosk. The easiest way (without paying that much more money) really is by using an iPass/Easycard, and it’s NT$18 or NT$36 depending on how far you go. Most of the things to do/see are concentrated downtown and mostly walkable. A lot of hotels will have bicycles that you can borrow, so that’s really convenient, too. I wasn’t too comfortable about riding my skateboard there. All the streets seemed to have a lot of cars and scooters, and people down there don’t exactly heed traffic signals. To seriously a lot of people, green is go straight and red is turn left or right!這一集,我們從台南火車站搭台灣好行88安平線到孔廟和神農街。88安平線有套票,要透過7-11的ibon買,不過只有中文介面,店員也不見得會講英文,所以不會中文的朋友自己來的話,建議直接用一卡通或悠遊卡,反正沒有很貴,一段18塊,兩段才36塊。很多景點集中在市區,所以很多地方走路就可以到。很多飯店都有腳踏車可以借,也是個選擇。本來想說把電動滑板帶下去,但覺得台南馬路很恐怖,很多人都綠燈直走,紅燈轉彎,嚇死人了。我抓不到他們的節奏,想說算了,滑板放家裡。


We started at Tainan Station and took the tourist shuttle to Confucius Temple. You can budget about an hour or less there. Across the street are some great places. Exit the main gate and diagonally across on the right is a cafe called Zhaimen 窄門 meaning “narrow gate/door” overlooking the temple, but the entrance is hidden at the side of the building. To get to the entrance, you have to squeeze through two buildings, and most people have to turn sideways and suck in their stomach to get through the narrowest part, which is right at the street. It’s fun. Once you get through, it’s on your left, and you have to go upstairs to the second floor. It’s an old house that belonged to a Japanese doctor, I believe, during the occupation. Now it’s just a cafe with creaky floors and nostalgic decor. I wanted to show my friend Cedric, but when we went and popped our heads in the cafe, the young man at the counter didn’t seem very happy for us to be “disturbing” them. I said I just wanted to show my friend the place so maybe when he comes next time he can bring his family, but the young man's face kind of showed “you better sit down and order something or get out of here.” Makes me not want to go ever again, but that’s another issue.我們從台南火車站出發,搭了台灣好行巴士到孔廟。自己逛的話,孔廟一小時就夠了。孔廟對面有幾間有趣的店,包括正門右邊斜對面有一間窄門咖啡,從他們二樓靠窗桌可以看到孔廟,不過有趣的是他們的入口,要側身,甚至側身再把肚子吸進去才過得去。我記得有人說這裡曾經是一位日本醫師的房子。現在就是一家懷舊的咖啡廳,地板還會吱吱叫。比較可惜的是,那天沒什麼時間,不過我想帶我朋友Cedric去看一下,改天他才知道怎麼去。服務生一副妳要嘛就消費,要嘛就不要打擾我們的樣子。這樣以後人家怎麼會想再去?任何路...(anyway)


A few doors down from the cafe is a supermarket with the best meat buns. They have lots of flavors, but I like the original with pork, mushrooms, a little bit of spring onion, pepper and a salted duck egg yolk. Sometimes I buy a bunch, freeze them and steam them for breakfast. Across the street is Lili Fruits 莉莉水果店 where they sell high quality, fresh cut fruits and juices. I love that place. If you like steamed meatballs coated in a thick, glutinous rice covering, 20 meters down from Lili is a small meatball restaurant. It’s quite famous, a lot of people (my husband included) like it, but I find it just OK.窄門再過去一點有一間克林超市,超市有個買包子的窗口,這裡的包子好好吃~ 我最喜歡吃原味,就是八寶包,裡面有豬肉,香菇,一點蔥,黑胡椒, 鴨蛋黃。有時候我會買一兩盒凍起來,早上放電鍋,配一杯豆漿,就是個超棒的早餐。肉包店的10點中方向是莉莉水果店,這裡有高品質的新鮮水果,冰,和果汁。莉莉的隔壁幾家有肉圓店,蒸的,很嫩,歪嘴雞好ㄤ說好吃。


From there we walked to Hayashi Department Store, renovated, reopened and geared towards a younger crowd with a focus on industrial design. A lot of the items there are fun and interesting and make great gifts. I bought my new hat there. There are a couple of cafes in Hayashi with lots of natural light, and I find that quite enjoyable. Not to be missed are the bullet holes left on display and the Japanese shrine (to help with harvests/business) on the roof. You might want to avoid going to Hayashi on a weekend, though, because they limit the number of people that can enter the building for safety reasons. Go on a weekday or during a meal time so you can avoid the crowd and the line.從孔廟,我們走路到林百貨。建議大家平日來這裡,否則碰到人潮,得在外面排隊。可能老建築結構比較脆弱,所以有限制入館的人數。人多的時候,有人出來,才能有人進去。感覺林百貨裡面大部分客人都是走馬看花的遊覽車遊客,還有來約會的年輕人。裡面的產品有台灣較精緻的農產品,手工服飾(帆布包當然也不可少),其他文創產品,比較有設計感的一些東西。去勘景時,我們逛了很久,覺得有很多好玩的東西,很適合送禮(給年輕朋友),我自己也買了一頂帽子。林百貨裡面的兩間咖啡廳的氣氛也不錯,都有大面玻璃窗。它的頂樓也很有看頭,有招財神的日本神社,也有當時空襲留下來的彈孔。以前有彈孔的地方更多,但整修時,為了安全,幾乎都拆掉了。


After Hayashi, we went to Shennong Street 神農街 where it’s nicer at night. If you go during the day, you can kind of appreciate the history (canals, long houses), but it looks really dirty, old and dilapidated. At night when the street lights/lanterns light up, it becomes magical. And that was the end of our tour.林百貨之後,我們回到好行路線,搭車到神農街。建議這裡晚上來,白天感覺破破的,晚上燈點亮之後就很有氣氛,感覺宮崎駿可以來這裡取景。以上是米雪拉這次的漫遊行程~


It’s always nice if you can get a guide to tell you the stories and facts of what you’re looking at. Tainan City Hall has tours that you can sign up for. I think they’re only in Chinese right now, but if you have a translator with you, that works too.建議大家出去玩,盡量找解說員,玩起來比較有意義,印象也比較深刻,難忘。台南市政府有導覽解說的服務: http://tour.tainan.gov.tw/Activity/(S(vdaxmv55nbjsoanvwnwkj545))/chinese/ApplicationList.aspx

We’ve been staying at Wei-Yat Hotel on these last few trips to Tainan. They accommodate our budget and we really appreciate it. The hotel is a bit old, but the rooms are very decent and the service is good. It’s right by Anping Canal, which I like. I can see crews rowing on it in the mornings and sometimes in the evenings. It brings back wonderful memories of my rowing days in college. Across the river is a beef soup restaurant called Wenzhang “文章.” The establishment is not exactly squeaky clean, but the beef soup is very tasty. I like their food, but I prefer it to go. Another restaurant close by is Akasushi/chishousi 赤壽司, a Japanese place. We sat at the counter, and it was a nice experience. A place to revisit the next time we stay at Wei-Yat.我們最近都住在維悅,很感謝飯店能夠配合我們的預算。維悅有一點歷史了,不過房間和服務都很不錯,地點也很好,在安平運河旁,早上和晚上都有人在練西式划船,讓我想到我大學划船,酸甜苦辣的回憶。飯店斜對面,運河的另外一邊有一家文章牛肉湯,距離「乾淨,舒適」有點距離,但牛肉湯很好喝。如果要再去吃,我會外帶回飯店慢慢享用。還有另外一間附近的餐廳,赤壽司,這裡就比較乾淨了,也好吃,這家絕對還有下一次。

These are reasonably priced and clean business hotels that we’ve stayed at in Tainan: Kindness, Kiwi. If Wei-Yat isn’t available, I don’t mind going back to Kindness and Kiwi, whose walls are paper thin, but the guests are usually decent and don’t make too much noise. What I find makes the most noise are the water lines in the ceiling and walls. They sound like waterfalls sometimes.台南有好幾間廉價的商務旅館,我們住過康橋,奇異果。如果維悅沒空房,這兩家就是備案。優點是便宜,平日定價大概2000以內吧,缺點是隔音很差,水聲很大聲,感覺水將從和牆壁,天花板爆衝出來。房客水準比較不複雜,很多是出差的人,其實陸客也不少,但不會太吵。


There are lots of B&B’s in Tainan, and some of them are quite interestingly and nicely decorated. Sometimes nice decor doesn’t translate to comfort, and in many cases in Tainan, don’t translate to safe and legal. You’ll notice that a lot of B&B’s don’t have signs, and that’s because they’re not registered (or can’t be registered). Once they put a B&B sign out, the authorities come and write them a ticket for operating business without a permit. Sometimes laws and regulations aren’t reasonable or are way out of date, but I personally feel more at ease when the place I’m staying in is legal, which means it at least has passed fire and other safety regulations. For a while, I was really interested in B&B’s, but I find that hotels are generally much more comfortable and the level of quality can be expected. Oftentimes, the price is about the same for hotels and B&B’s, so the obvious choice for me is hotel.台南有很多民宿,很多都很有特色,不過舒適不舒適,安全不安全,就另外一回事了。很多民宿有看板,因為不合法,看板一擺出,可能就被開單了。不合法有很多原因,可能安檢沒通過,可能現在的規定無法讓他們營業,有很多可能。或許一些法律不合裡,但對我來說,有掛牌營業的地方比較有保障,所以我現在都盡量住飯店,通常飯店也比較舒適,畢竟飯店這方面比較有經驗。

Links:Hayashi Department Store 林百貨 http://www.hayashi.com.twWei Yat Hotel 維悅飯店 www.weiyat-hotel.com/Akasushi/chishousi 赤壽司 https://www.facebook.com/Tainan.Akasushi


Wardrobe & Accessories 服裝與配件:Watch: Martian http://www.martianwatches.com.tw/tw/index.asp?au_id=17&sub_id=48
Shirt: Kotipesa http://kotipesa.com
Shorts: Uniqlo http://www.uniqlo.com
Shoes: Rucoline http://www.rucoline.com

1 comment:

sjschen said...

I heard that in Taiwan these mixed business/residential buildings were long like this because back then, taxes for one's business were calculated based on the size of the storefronts. Thus people started constructing this way as a method of tax avoidance.

Do you know if this is true?