Info on episode 29: Cycling in Baihe

Time for Taiwan 2015-2016, Episode 29: Cycling in Baihe

2015-2016年「台灣好好玩」第二十九集： 台南白河鐵馬之旅

Transcript 文字稿:

Today we’re in Baihe, Tainan, which is famous for lotus farms.

今天我們來到台南白河，蓮花是這裡很出名的農產。

Baihe is great for cycling. If you have an iPass or Easycard and a local mobile phone number, you can rent a public bicycle. If not, there are other bike rental shops around too.

白河是個很適合騎單車的地方，你如果有台灣的手機號碼，可以用悠遊卡或一卡通租公共腳踏車。沒有的話，這裡還有其他的單車租賃店。

There is a network of trails here, with the distance totaling tens of kilometers. The scenery here is peaceful and rural. You get to ride along rice paddies, lotus farms, irrigation channels, reservoirs, and lots of big, beautiful trees.

這裡有好幾條單車道，綿延數十公里，這邊的田園風景很寧靜，騎車時可以享受稻田，蓮花田，水圳，水埤，還有一排排大樹的風景。

Come have a look. What do you think this is? These are old train tracks. There used to be a sugar mill around here. Baihe is mostly an agricultural town, in the plains, people produce rice and lotus seeds.

來看一下。你覺得這是什麼？這是舊鐵道！這裡曾經有家糖廠。白河的經濟來源以農作為主，在平地，主要生產的是稻米和蓮子。

There was a period of time when lotus seeds didn’t sell well, so the townspeople thought, lotuses are beautiful to look at so why don’t we make a tourism industry out of it, too. They invited travelers, who’d stand by the side of the road and look at the lotuses, but it was unbearably hot because there were no trees to provide shade. Shade is bad for rice, that’s why. So people started planting trees along the road where there are lotus farms. These trees included kapok trees, which turned out to become another beautiful tourist attraction.

有一段時間，蓮子滯銷，當地居民想說「蓮花很漂亮，那我們也來發展賞蓮的觀光產業好了」，結果吸引了很多遊客來到白河，站在路邊看蓮花，但實在太熱了，因為沒有樹蔭可以躲太陽。沒有樹蔭的原因是，樹蔭會影響尤其稻米的成長，所以以前都不種路樹。不過為了賞蓮，後來種了很多樹，包括木棉樹。沒想到意外讓木棉樹也成為了一個觀光重點。

The stretch of kapok trees here is especially nice in March and April when the flowers bloom. In fact, some even say the kapoks make this one of the prettiest bike paths in the world. Pity we’re here now and not when it’s blooming!

木棉道在三四月木棉花盛開的時候特別漂亮，有人甚至說，這是世界上最美的腳踏車道之一。很可惜我們來的時候，花還沒盛開！

Throughout the ride, you’ll see lots of Sanheyuan, which are traditional houses that you won't find in the city. Also there are lots of farm houses, some with an interesting twist. This is part of an ongoing community building project that is aiming to add a bit of art and youth back into the system.

在這裡騎車，到處可以看到三合院，一種傳統的房子，這裡也有很多農舍，有一些很有趣喔，這是一個持續進行中的社區發展活動，目的是將年輕人帶回白河，以及注入藝術元素。

Baihe reminds me of Chishang, Taitung because of the rice paddies and bike paths that allow you to ride through them. What’s cool about this one is the diversity in scenery, and the fact that not that may people know about this yet. Before it gets too crowded, you should come!

白河讓我想到台東池上，因為這裡有稻田，有在稻田中穿梭的單車道。這裡特別的是，風景很多元，然後大家還不太知道這裡有多好，所以在所有人發現這裡很棒之前，趕快來喔！

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Michella's notes 米雪拉的筆記：

I was really pleasantly surprised at how wonderful cycling in Baihe can be! The sights are beautiful - there are picturesque rice paddies, irrigation channels, reservoirs, lotus farms/ponds, an artistic rice farming village, sanheyuan’s (traditional Chinese houses)… This is a great place to ride, and there are lots of roads and paths so budget more time to spend here. Another thing that also stands out is the B&B where we stayed - Granduncle Home, which was recently built. The owner (“granduncle’s” son, actually) is also a guide that can show you all the best places and tell you the stories. I don’t think he speaks English, but if you follow him, I’m sure the ride will be a good one.

我被白河鐵馬之旅驚艷到了，這裡真的很讚耶！風景很多元，很漂亮，有稻田，水圳，水埤，蓮花池，藝術村，三合院，好多好多！白河可以騎的地方蠻多的，所以可以多花點時間在這裡。另外一個印象深刻的是，我們住的民宿，叫做三叔公的家。老闆（三叔公的兒子）可以帶你到處騎，跟你講當地的故事。然後他家房間乾淨，房子是新蓋的。

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Links 連結：

Taiwan Cycling Festival 台灣騎跡 http://taiwanbike.tw/Article.aspx?sNo=02000194&lang=2

Granduncle Home 三叔公的家 http://granduncle.18851.com.tw

Info on special episode 1: Hayashi Department Store, Tainan 台南林百貨

2015-2016 Special Episode 1 Hayashi Department Store, Tainan 台南林百貨

2015-2016 Special Episode 1 Hayashi Department Store, Tainan ...
2015-2016 Special Episode 1 Hayashi Department Store, Taianai 台南林百貨Transcript 文字搞：M: Hello Cedric! Long time no see! How have you been?雅立，好久不見！最近好嗎？C: You know, same ol’ same ol’. But you know I’m very happy to be here in Tainan today.就那樣啊，不過很開心今天來到台南。M: And…?然後呢？C: And to see you, of course!然後...很開心看到妳啊。M: Oh yes it’s so good to see you. Come on! Let me show you around. Let’s go to Hayashi Department Store or “Lin baihuo.”我也很開心看到你！走，我帶你去逛逛。我們到林百貨。C: Let’s go.走吧。I’m Michella, and this is my friend Cedric, a French film director. We love shooting things together, brainstorming about projects together, and traveling together. Join us on our adventure!我是米雪拉，這是我的法國導演朋友雅立。我們喜歡一起拍東西，一起腦力激盪，一起旅行。歡迎大家一起來玩！M: Since we’re at Tainan Train Station, we can take the red line bus from here to Hayashi.我們現在在台南火車站，所以我們可以搭紅線到林百貨。C: Yeah and the good thing is, you can use your trusty Easycard, aka “youyouka” or the iPass, aka “yikatong.”對啊，然後可以用很方便的用悠遊卡和一卡通。M: Uh huh.嗯啊。C: So Michella, let me get this straight. We came all the way to Tainan for us to go shopping? Do you remember I’m a guy?米雪拉，我想問一下，我們大老遠來到台南，然後妳竟然要帶我去蝦拼？妳忘記我是個男生嗎？。M: I’m taking you to Hayashi Department Store, it's not quite the same same thing as taking you shopping.我要帶你去林百貨，跟帶你去蝦拼不一樣。C: No it is quite the same as taking me to look at you shopping.跟妳帶我去看妳蝦拼是一樣的啦。M: OK, maybe. But there’s more to just emptying your pocket at Hayashi. You’ll see.好啦，或許。不過去林百貨不一定是花錢啦。你等一下就知道了。C: Well, one thing is. My pockets are not empty because the commute from Tainan Train Station to the department store is free with the Easycard.還好台南火車站到林百貨這段公車不用花錢。M: That certainly helps. Oh, next stop.多少有些幫助喔。我們下一站下車。C: Wow, this isn’t any old department store, it’s a REALLY old department store…pay attention! This is a beautiful place, too, right?哇，這不是一家老百貨公司，它是一家非常古老的百貨公司。喂，專心一點！而且很漂亮耶！M: The tiles are even handmade. This place is currently the oldest department store in Taiwan. It was first opened about 85 years ago.連磁磚都是手工作的。這是目前台灣最老的百貨公司，85年前開的。C: I see. It’s very classy. It must have been a very select place back in the day. Oh come on.嗯。很典雅。在那個時候一定很高貴喔。M: You're right. This area was called “Ginza.”對啊，這地帶以前叫做「銀座」。C: Just like the Ginza in Tokyo.就像東京的銀座。M: In addition to glamorously carrying the latest and prettiest merchandise, this building was the tallest building in Tainan at the time and the only one with an elevator, so people would come just to ride the it. Kids especially loved it.除了銷售當下最新，最漂亮的產品，林百貨當時還是台南最高的大樓，唯一有電梯的建築物。以前有人還專程跑來這邊體驗搭電梯，小朋友特別喜歡。C: Yeah. Let’s ride the elevator! Let’s ride the elevator!耶。我們去搭電梯！我們去搭電梯！M: Forever young.赤子之心。C: Yes. Get out of the way.對啊。走開啦！C: Eighty-five years ago was the Japanese occupation, right?85年前，那就是日治時代囉？M: Yeah.對啊。C: No wonder this place has a Japanese-European feel to it. But has this place been open all this time? I’ve never heard of it before coming here today.難怪這裡給人又日式又歐式的感覺。這85年都一直有在營業嗎？我之前都沒聽過。M: Me either.我也沒有。C: Oh come on.沒有才怪。C: Shall we?走吧？M: Yeah, let’s go up this way. This is one of the machine gun posts.我們往上走。這是其中一個機關槍座。C: The same as what we saw downstairs.跟樓下那個一樣。M: Yeah. Pretty cool, huh?對啊，酷吧？C: You can see the bullet holes.還有彈孔耶。M: There are some bullet holes, really obvious bullet holes, but a lot of the tiles came apart.一些彈孔非常明顯，不過很多的磁磚都被炸碎了。C: Ah yeah that’s the shrine here.那個是神社。M: And that’s another machine gun post. That wasn’t there before the war.裡面還有一個機關槍座。戰後才裝的。C: You know Michella, I’m really glad they restored this building and reopened Hayashi Department Store. It would have really been a shame to just let it die.米雪拉，妳知道嗎，我很開心林百貨被修復，重新開幕。直接讓它走入歷史，實在太可惜了。M: I agree, I’m quite happy about it reopening too. And the shopping inside - I really enjoyed that.對啊，我也很開心它重新開幕了。裡面的商場，我也覺得很棒。C: The new hat suits you well.我喜歡妳的新帽子喔～M: Thanks. 謝謝～C: You know what? I’m really looking forward to coming back here again, and hopefully discovering more old buildings brought back to life.其實啊，我蠻期待下次再來的時候，希望可以看到更多像這樣起死回生，被注入新生命的地方。So you should come!所以大家要來喔。——————————In this special episode, my buddy Cedric Jouarie and I visited Tainan’s Hayashi Department Store. We got on the red line bus at Tainan train station and got off at Hayashi, which was about two stops down. Because it was so close, the bus fare was free, but you do need to tag on and off the bus with an Easycard or iPass.Hayashi’s a pretty place with history and design. The building really stands out in the midst of other structures in the area. Because it’s restored and from a different period, one long ago and when people were spending money to enjoy themselves, there’s a classy feel to it.In terms of historical artifacts, a couple of cabinets from when it first opened is now being used again, the old elevator door, machine gun posts, etc are on display by the cafe upstairs. Bullet holes from air raids during WWII, and the Japanese shrine and torii are left for you to look at on the roof.So what can you empty your pockets on when you go? For starters, right before you go into the department store, there is a Japanese tea/ice-cream take-out shop. Cedric’s green tea ice-cream is from there. It looked really good and I really wanted one but our director Charles said, “No, Cedric gets the ice-cream.” Whaaaaat? Anyway, on the first floor are mostly dried foods and sauces from around Taiwan, most of them quite tasty and have a long shelf life. Upstairs you’ll find bags, clothing and items for I think the 20-35 years old crowd. Lots of items made from canvas, lots of products heavy on industrial design, some handcrafted everyday items. A lot of the things are really fun to play with and look at. It felt like shopping at Eslite. I bought a hat for myself. They said it was made of “antique fabric,” which sounded really cool at first, but I realized it’s just a fancy word for “old and unused,” and I think too many hands had touched and played with it because it was starting to get a little soft at the top. But it was the last one and I liked it, so I still ended up bringing it home. Overall, Hayashi is a great place to find gifts for young people with an eye for design.You should come!這一集台灣好好玩特別節目，我和我的好朋友周雅立去了台南林百貨。我們從台南火車站上車，林百貨下車，因為才兩站，車資免費！不過還是要刷上和刷下，一卡通和悠遊卡都可以～林百貨是個有歷史和設計的地方，它在其他附近的建築當中非常亮眼。我覺得因為被修復過，而且是在一個景氣好，很多人都願意花錢的時候蓋的，跟其他比起來，林百貨的設計特別典雅。歷史文物方面，當初使用的展示櫃，現在還有兩個在現場。另外在咖啡廳旁還有以前的電梯門，機關槍機座等等可以看一下。頂樓可以看到第二次世界大戰空襲時留下的彈孔，還有當初日本經營者蓋的神社和鳥居。來到這裡可以如何花錢呢？還沒進到裡面就有間日式茶舖，雅立的抹茶冰淇淋就是在那裡買的。我也很想要吃，但我們導演柏勳哥說不行，只有雅立可以吃。為什麼～～～～～ 接著進到裡面，一樓有很多台灣各地的食品，醬料，很多都很好吃，好保存。樓上有很多服飾，配件，感覺是大概20-35歲之間的消費者喜歡的東西。帆布和文創產品特別多，也有很多手工產品。有些東西蠻好玩的，感覺在逛誠品。我自己買了頂帽子，據說是古董布。一開始覺得很酷，古董布耶～ 後來想一想，不就是放了很久的布料？然後感覺被大家玩了有一點點爛爛的，不過那是最後一頂了，沒有別的了，所以還是把它買回家。我覺得要找禮物，去林百貨就對了。大家要來喔！——————————Links 連結：Hayashi Department Store 林百貨 http://www.hayashi.com.twRed Line bus 紅線公車 http://citybus.tainan.gov.tw/zh/knowledge/10.html——————————Accessories 配件：Shirt: kotipesä http://kotipesa.comWatch: Martian摩絢錶 http://www.martianwatches.com.twShoes: RucolineHat: Beams
Posted by FTV Time for Taiwan on Wednesday, November 4, 2015

Transcript 文字搞：

M: Hello Cedric! Long time no see! How have you been?
雅立，好久不見！最近好嗎？

C: You know, same ol’ same ol’. But you know I’m very happy to be here in Tainan today.
就那樣啊，不過很開心今天來到台南。

M: And…?
然後呢？

C: And to see you, of course!
然後...很開心看到妳啊。

M: Oh yes it’s so good to see you. Come on! Let me show you around. Let’s go to Hayashi Department Store or “Lin baihuo.”
我也很開心看到你！走，我帶你去逛逛。我們到林百貨。

C: Let’s go.
走吧。
I’m Michella, and this is my friend Cedric, a French film director. We love shooting things together, brainstorming about projects together, and traveling together. Join us on our adventure!
我是米雪拉，這是我的法國導演朋友雅立。我們喜歡一起拍東西，一起腦力激盪，一起旅行。歡迎大家一起來玩！
M: Since we’re at Tainan Train Station, we can take the red line bus from here to Hayashi.
我們現在在台南火車站，所以我們可以搭紅線到林百貨。

C: Yeah and the good thing is, you can use your trusty Easycard, aka “youyouka” or the iPass, aka “yikatong.”
對啊，然後可以用很方便的用悠遊卡和一卡通。

M: Uh huh.
嗯啊。
C: So Michella, let me get this straight. We came all the way to Tainan for us to go shopping? Do you remember I’m a guy?
米雪拉，我想問一下，我們大老遠來到台南，然後妳竟然要帶我去蝦拼？妳忘記我是個男生嗎？。

M: I’m taking you to Hayashi Department Store, it's not quite the same same thing as taking you shopping.
我要帶你去林百貨，跟帶你去蝦拼不一樣。

C: No it is quite the same as taking me to look at you shopping.
跟妳帶我去看妳蝦拼是一樣的啦。

M: OK, maybe. But there’s more to just emptying your pocket at Hayashi. You’ll see.
好啦，或許。不過去林百貨不一定是花錢啦。你等一下就知道了。

C: Well, one thing is. My pockets are not empty because the commute from Tainan Train Station to the department store is free with the Easycard.
還好台南火車站到林百貨這段公車不用花錢。

M: That certainly helps. Oh, next stop.
多少有些幫助喔。我們下一站下車。

C: Wow, this isn’t any old department store, it’s a REALLY old department store…pay attention! This is a beautiful place, too, right?
哇，這不是一家老百貨公司，它是一家非常古老的百貨公司。喂，專心一點！而且很漂亮耶！

M: The tiles are even handmade. This place is currently the oldest department store in Taiwan. It was first opened about 85 years ago.
連磁磚都是手工作的。這是目前台灣最老的百貨公司，85年前開的。

C: I see. It’s very classy. It must have been a very select place back in the day. Oh come on.
嗯。很典雅。在那個時候一定很高貴喔。

M: You're right. This area was called “Ginza.”
對啊，這地帶以前叫做「銀座」。

C: Just like the Ginza in Tokyo.
就像東京的銀座。
M: In addition to glamorously carrying the latest and prettiest merchandise, this building was the tallest building in Tainan at the time and the only one with an elevator, so people would come just to ride the it. Kids especially loved it.
除了銷售當下最新，最漂亮的產品，林百貨當時還是台南最高的大樓，唯一有電梯的建築物。以前有人還專程跑來這邊體驗搭電梯，小朋友特別喜歡。

C: Yeah. Let’s ride the elevator! Let’s ride the elevator!
耶。我們去搭電梯！我們去搭電梯！

M: Forever young.
赤子之心。

C: Yes. Get out of the way.
對啊。走開啦！

C: Eighty-five years ago was the Japanese occupation, right?
85年前，那就是日治時代囉？

M: Yeah.
對啊。

C: No wonder this place has a Japanese-European feel to it. But has this place been open all this time? I’ve never heard of it before coming here today.
難怪這裡給人又日式又歐式的感覺。這85年都一直有在營業嗎？我之前都沒聽過。

M: Me either.
我也沒有。

C: Oh come on.
沒有才怪。
C: Shall we?
走吧？

M: Yeah, let’s go up this way. This is one of the machine gun posts.
我們往上走。這是其中一個機關槍座。

C: The same as what we saw downstairs.
跟樓下那個一樣。

M: Yeah. Pretty cool, huh?
對啊，酷吧？

C: You can see the bullet holes.
還有彈孔耶。

M: There are some bullet holes, really obvious bullet holes, but a lot of the tiles came apart.
一些彈孔非常明顯，不過很多的磁磚都被炸碎了。

C: Ah yeah that’s the shrine here.
那個是神社。

M: And that’s another machine gun post. That wasn’t there before the war.
裡面還有一個機關槍座。戰後才裝的。

C: You know Michella, I’m really glad they restored this building and reopened Hayashi Department Store. It would have really been a shame to just let it die.
米雪拉，妳知道嗎，我很開心林百貨被修復，重新開幕。直接讓它走入歷史，實在太可惜了。

M: I agree, I’m quite happy about it reopening too. And the shopping inside - I really enjoyed that.
對啊，我也很開心它重新開幕了。裡面的商場，我也覺得很棒。

C: The new hat suits you well.
我喜歡妳的新帽子喔～

M: Thanks.
謝謝～

C: You know what? I’m really looking forward to coming back here again, and hopefully discovering more old buildings brought back to life.
其實啊，我蠻期待下次再來的時候，希望可以看到更多像這樣起死回生，被注入新生命的地方。

So you should come!
所以大家要來喔。

——————————

In this special episode, my buddy Cedric Jouarie and I visited Tainan’s Hayashi Department Store. We got on the red line bus at Tainan train station and got off at Hayashi, which was about two stops down. Because it was so close, the bus fare was free, but you do need to tag on and off the bus with an Easycard or iPass.

Hayashi’s a pretty place with history and design. The building really stands out in the midst of other structures in the area. Because it’s restored and from a different period, one long ago and when people were spending money to enjoy themselves, there’s a classy feel to it.

In terms of historical artifacts, a couple of cabinets from when it first opened is now being used again, the old elevator door, machine gun posts, etc are on display by the cafe upstairs. Bullet holes from air raids during WWII, and the Japanese shrine and torii are left for you to look at on the roof.

So what can you empty your pockets on when you go? For starters, right before you go into the department store, there is a Japanese tea/ice-cream take-out shop. Cedric’s green tea ice-cream is from there. It looked really good and I really wanted one but our director Charles said, “No, Cedric gets the ice-cream.” Whaaaaat? Anyway, on the first floor are mostly dried foods and sauces from around Taiwan, most of them quite tasty and have a long shelf life. Upstairs you’ll find bags, clothing and items for I think the 20-35 years old crowd. Lots of items made from canvas, lots of products heavy on industrial design, some handcrafted everyday items. A lot of the things are really fun to play with and look at. It felt like shopping at Eslite. I bought a hat for myself. They said it was made of “antique fabric,” which sounded really cool at first, but I realized it’s just a fancy word for “old and unused,” and I think too many hands had touched and played with it because it was starting to get a little soft at the top. But it was the last one and I liked it, so I still ended up bringing it home. Overall, Hayashi is a great place to find gifts for young people with an eye for design.

You should come!

這一集台灣好好玩特別節目，我和我的好朋友周雅立去了台南林百貨。我們從台南火車站上車，林百貨下車，因為才兩站，車資免費！不過還是要刷上和刷下，一卡通和悠遊卡都可以～

林百貨是個有歷史和設計的地方，它在其他附近的建築當中非常亮眼。我覺得因為被修復過，而且是在一個景氣好，很多人都願意花錢的時候蓋的，跟其他比起來，林百貨的設計特別典雅。

歷史文物方面，當初使用的展示櫃，現在還有兩個在現場。另外在咖啡廳旁還有以前的電梯門，機關槍機座等等可以看一下。頂樓可以看到第二次世界大戰空襲時留下的彈孔，還有當初日本經營者蓋的神社和鳥居。

來到這裡可以如何花錢呢？還沒進到裡面就有間日式茶舖，雅立的抹茶冰淇淋就是在那裡買的。我也很想要吃，但我們導演柏勳哥說不行，只有雅立可以吃。為什麼～～～～～ 接著進到裡面，一樓有很多台灣各地的食品，醬料，很多都很好吃，好保存。樓上有很多服飾，配件，感覺是大概20-35歲之間的消費者喜歡的東西。帆布和文創產品特別多，也有很多手工產品。有些東西蠻好玩的，感覺在逛誠品。我自己買了頂帽子，據說是古董布。一開始覺得很酷，古董布耶～ 後來想一想，不就是放了很久的布料？然後感覺被大家玩了有一點點爛爛的，不過那是最後一頂了，沒有別的了，所以還是把它買回家。我覺得要找禮物，去林百貨就對了。

大家要來喔！

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Links 連結：

Hayashi Department Store 林百貨 http://www.hayashi.com.tw

Red Line bus 紅線公車 http://citybus.tainan.gov.tw/zh/knowledge/10.html

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Accessories 配件：
Shirt: kotipesä​ http://www.kotipesa.com
Watch: Martian http://www.martianwatches.com.tw
Shoes: Rucoline
Hat: Beams

Info on episode 6: 台南孔廟 Tainan Confucius Temple

Time for Taiwan 2015-2016, Episode 6: Confucius Temple, Tainan...
Time for Taiwan 2015-2016, Episode 6: Confucius Temple, Tainan2015-2016年「台灣好好玩」第六集：台南孔廟 漫步旅行 (deluxe edit)Transcipt 文字稿:Welcome to Tainan, the oldest city of Taiwan. Here you'll find the oldest public school, which is housed inside the oldest Confucius Temple or “kongmiao,” on the island.歡迎來到台南，台灣最老的城市，這裡也有全台最老的公立學校，這間學校位於台灣最老的孔廟裡面。I want to take you on a walking tour today. But we can cheat a little and take the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle, 88 Anping Route part of the way.今天我要帶大家漫步旅行，不過有一些地方我們可以搭台灣好行88安平線，偷個懶。You can use an Easycard or iPass to tag on and off the bus, and the fare is NT$18 or NT$36 depending on how far you go. You can buy and charge these at convenience stores.車資可以用悠遊卡或一卡通感應付費，每一趟才18元或36元，看你坐多遠。悠遊卡和一卡通可以在便利商店購買和儲值。We're at Tainan Train Station and Confucius Temple is here.這裡是台南火車站，孔廟在那裡。Taiwan Tourist Shuttles are great, they take you to tourist attractions. If you don't know where you want to go, get a brochure and figure it out on the bus.台灣好行真的很棒，它會直接載你到觀光景點。沒做功課也沒關係，拿個DM，然後上車研究就好了。Today's theme is "oldest in Taiwan," and I want to bring you to the oldest Confucian Temple, the oldest public school, the oldest department store, then to one of the oldest and most nostalgic streets in Tainan.今天的主題是「台灣最早，台灣最老」，我要帶大家到台灣最早的孔廟，最早官方設立的學校，然後再到台灣最老的百貨公司，最後再去一條很有古早味的巷子。This is Confucius Temple, which has a three-star Michelin Green Guide rating, which means you probably don’t want to miss it. This place has a special meaning to me. I’ll tell you about it later.這裡是孔廟，它擁有米其林綠色旅遊三顆星的評鑑，意思是，錯過可能會後悔。其實這裡呢，對我有個特別的意義，待會兒跟大家講。Tainan was once a Dutch colony used for trade, but after Koxinga, a Chinese official, drove them out in 1661, the Chinese government decided to develop the area. To foster culture and education, they built this Confucian temple and schoolhouse in 1665.台南曾經是荷蘭人為了做貿易的殖民地，鄭成功將他們趕走之後，中國決定將台南好好發展，而為了推廣教育，官方在1665年蓋了這間孔廟和學堂。These are mortuary tablets of some of Confucius’ most famous students. Intellect was considered to be quite holy.這是孔子一些知名弟子的牌位。智慧是非常神聖的。When Confucius was still alive, in the 400-500’s BC, he told his students, when I die, do not worship me, for I am just a teacher. But students often don’t do what they’re told, do they?孔子還活著的時候，大約西元前四五百年，他跟他的學生說，我死了之後不要祭拜我，因為我只是個老師。但是學生從來不聽老師話...Schoolhouses were often attached to Confucian temples. This school was more like a college or a graduate school.古時候，學堂經常蓋在孔廟裡面或旁邊。這間學堂的層級比較像現在的大學，或研究所。Earlier I said that this particular Confucian Temple has special meaning to me. In 1915 my great-grandparents on my godmother’s side were married here, in this classroom. And turning tradition completely on its head, they decided to come to the wedding in a tuxedo and a Western wedding dress. I guess rebelliousness runs in the family.剛才我說這間孔廟對我來說，有特別的意義。1915年，我的乾曾祖父母的婚禮，是在這間學堂舉行的。他們顛覆傳統，決定穿西方的白紗和燕尾服，而不是傳統中國的長袍馬褂。看來姓翁的人，都很有自己的想法。I love this area. You can eat your way through to your next destination. Over there is where you can get fresh cut fruit and just a few doors down is where you can get steamed meatballs. I’m going to get this, meat buns. These are really, really good.我好喜歡這一區，可以從頭吃到尾。那邊有冰果室，隔壁幾家有肉圓，我呢，來吃個包子好了。這好好吃喔。Next let’s walk over to Hayashi Department Store, the oldest remaining department store in Taiwan. It was opened during the Japanese occupation in 1932 by a Japanese businessman named “Houichi Hayashi.”接下來我們散步到林百貨，台灣最老，目前還有在營業的百貨。林百貨是在1932年日治時代，由一位叫做林方一的日本人創辦的。There are six stories here and it was the tallest and perhaps even the most decadent building in Tainan at the time.六層樓高，這裡當時可是最高，也可能是台南最華麗的一棟大樓。In the 1930’s, popular music started to pick up, people started going out dancing, and department stores started popping up here and there. I think it was pretty good times.1930年代，大家開始聽台語流行音樂，開始流行跳舞，百貨公司也開始一間間的開張，可以說是一個繁榮美好的時代。But WWII broke out in the 40’s and Tainan was heavily bombed by the Americans.不過1940年代發生二次世界大戰，台南則被美軍轟炸得相當嚴重。You can still see some of the bullet holes left by attack aircraft. Eventually Japan lost the war and they left Taiwan. But this was still the tallest building around, when the KMT came, they decided to install 50 anti-aircraft machine guns on the roof. A couple of (the machine gun) posts from those days are still here. That one, and this one.這邊還可以看當時戰機襲擊留下的彈孔。後來日本敗戰，撤出台灣。不過因為林百貨是當時最高的建築物，國民黨軍隊決定在屋頂設立防空機關槍，現在還看得到幾個機關槍座，那邊有一個，這邊也有一個。And one more in the middle of the Japanese shrine.神社中間還有一個。This building was left quite damaged, then used by various government offices over the years and abandoned until it was restored to its former glory and finally reopened in 2014. It’s a nice place now. I personally like it.林百貨的建築主體受到不小的打擊，而經過好幾個政府單位輪流使用空間，然後閒置多年，終於在2014年完整修復，重新開幕。現在這地方不錯，我個人蠻喜歡的。Now we’re headed for “Shennong Jie,” Shennong Street, where it’s especially nostalgic at night. The area was kind of like Venice, where there are canals that people went up and down in small boats.接著我們要到神農街，這裡晚上特別懷舊喔～以前這裡有點像威尼斯，有好幾條水道，可以看到民眾坐著船，划來划去。This was one of the five canals that used to be here.這裡曾經是五條水路其中一條。Boats would bring in goods like cloth, or Chinese herbal medicine, or perhaps dried food ingredients to the backdoor of these buildings. The merchandise would then be brought to the front of the building where the shop is, to be sold.當時小船就載著布料，中藥材，南北貨等等，到後門卸貨，再把貨品搬到前面的店鋪來販售。When you look at these buildings from the front, nothing seems out of the ordinary, but from the side, you’ll notice that they’re really, really long.這些房子，從正面看，感覺蠻正常的，不過從側面看，你會發現它很長很長。Families needed the space to live, to store inventory, and to do business in the storefront. Seventy meters - this was one house. Wow.這些空間包含一個家庭住的地方，儲藏貨物的空間，還有店面。一棟房子70公尺長耶，哇塞！This are used to be a very busy business district, but now it’s developing into a quiet, cafe, artsy sort of area. Might not seem like much during the day, but makes for a nice after dinner stroll.這裡曾經是個很熱鬧的貿易區，現在發展為一個寧靜的咖啡和文創產品店的小區域，白天不是很起眼，但非常適合晚餐後的散步。Tainan is one of those places that I keep coming back to. It keeps reinventing itself, but bringing back some of the history which has been lost. The wonderful thing about traveling here is that most of the places you’d want to go are within walking distance, and with the tourist shuttle bus, you can save time and go even further. I love Tainan and you might too. You should come.感覺我還蠻常來台南的，每次來都有一些不一樣，不過在這些變化當中會找回部分消失的歷史。來這邊玩，我覺得很棒的是，很多想去的地方，走路就可以到。加上台灣好行，又可以省時間，甚至跑更遠。我超愛台南的，或許你也會愛上它。大家要來喔。--------------------------------------------------------------------------------Tainan is one of my favorite places to go, and one of my favorite destinations on private trips. Transportation is easy: bullet train down from Taipei, and taxi/cycle/bus within the city. Accommodations is easy: lots of decent hotels from 2000 and up. Food is easy and really tasty: food everywhere and nearly all delicious. People are easy: usually super friendly.我超喜歡台南的，常因為工作去台南，不過自己有時候也會去玩。從台北到台南，搭高鐵就能到。台南市區內可以搭計程車，公車，或騎腳踏車。住宿有很多選擇，2000元以上的飯店都還算可以。吃的很好找，幾乎隨便一家都很好吃。人也通常很親切。In this episode, we took the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Anping 88 Route from the Tainan Train Station. There are packages available, but with no English support, so I spared everyone the details in the video. But if you want the package, you get it through 7-11’s ibon kiosk. The easiest way (without paying that much more money) really is by using an iPass/Easycard, and it’s NT$18 or NT$36 depending on how far you go. Most of the things to do/see are concentrated downtown and mostly walkable. A lot of hotels will have bicycles that you can borrow, so that’s really convenient, too. I wasn’t too comfortable about riding my skateboard there. All the streets seemed to have a lot of cars and scooters, and people down there don’t exactly heed traffic signals. To seriously a lot of people, green is go straight and red is turn left or right!這一集，我們從台南火車站搭台灣好行88安平線到孔廟和神農街。88安平線有套票，要透過7-11的ibon買，不過只有中文介面，店員也不見得會講英文，所以不會中文的朋友自己來的話，建議直接用一卡通或悠遊卡，反正沒有很貴，一段18塊，兩段才36塊。很多景點集中在市區，所以很多地方走路就可以到。很多飯店都有腳踏車可以借，也是個選擇。本來想說把電動滑板帶下去，但覺得台南馬路很恐怖，很多人都綠燈直走，紅燈轉彎，嚇死人了。我抓不到他們的節奏，想說算了，滑板放家裡。We started at Tainan Station and took the tourist shuttle to Confucius Temple. You can budget about an hour or less there. Across the street are some great places. Exit the main gate and diagonally across on the right is a cafe called Zhaimen 窄門 meaning “narrow gate/door” overlooking the temple, but the entrance is hidden at the side of the building. To get to the entrance, you have to squeeze through two buildings, and most people have to turn sideways and suck in their stomach to get through the narrowest part, which is right at the street. It’s fun. Once you get through, it’s on your left, and you have to go upstairs to the second floor. It’s an old house that belonged to a Japanese doctor, I believe, during the occupation. Now it’s just a cafe with creaky floors and nostalgic decor. I wanted to show my friend Cedric, but when we went and popped our heads in the cafe, the young man at the counter didn’t seem very happy for us to be “disturbing” them. I said I just wanted to show my friend the place so maybe when he comes next time he can bring his family, but the young man's face kind of showed “you better sit down and order something or get out of here.” Makes me not want to go ever again, but that’s another issue.我們從台南火車站出發，搭了台灣好行巴士到孔廟。自己逛的話，孔廟一小時就夠了。孔廟對面有幾間有趣的店，包括正門右邊斜對面有一間窄門咖啡，從他們二樓靠窗桌可以看到孔廟，不過有趣的是他們的入口，要側身，甚至側身再把肚子吸進去才過得去。我記得有人說這裡曾經是一位日本醫師的房子。現在就是一家懷舊的咖啡廳，地板還會吱吱叫。比較可惜的是，那天沒什麼時間，不過我想帶我朋友Cedric去看一下，改天他才知道怎麼去。服務生一副妳要嘛就消費，要嘛就不要打擾我們的樣子。這樣以後人家怎麼會想再去？任何路...(anyway)A few doors down from the cafe is a supermarket with the best meat buns. They have lots of flavors, but I like the original with pork, mushrooms, a little bit of spring onion, pepper and a salted duck egg yolk. Sometimes I buy a bunch, freeze them and steam them for breakfast. Across the street is Lili Fruits 莉莉水果店 where they sell high quality, fresh cut fruits and juices. I love that place. If you like steamed meatballs coated in a thick, glutinous rice covering, 20 meters down from Lili is a small meatball restaurant. It’s quite famous, a lot of people (my husband included) like it, but I find it just OK.窄門再過去一點有一間克林超市，超市有個買包子的窗口，這裡的包子好好吃～ 我最喜歡吃原味，就是八寶包，裡面有豬肉，香菇，一點蔥，黑胡椒， 鴨蛋黃。有時候我會買一兩盒凍起來，早上放電鍋，配一杯豆漿，就是個超棒的早餐。肉包店的10點中方向是莉莉水果店，這裡有高品質的新鮮水果，冰，和果汁。莉莉的隔壁幾家有肉圓店，蒸的，很嫩，歪嘴雞好ㄤ說好吃。From there we walked to Hayashi Department Store, renovated, reopened and geared towards a younger crowd with a focus on industrial design. A lot of the items there are fun and interesting and make great gifts. I bought my new hat there. There are a couple of cafes in Hayashi with lots of natural light, and I find that quite enjoyable. Not to be missed are the bullet holes left on display and the Japanese shrine (to help with harvests/business) on the roof. You might want to avoid going to Hayashi on a weekend, though, because they limit the number of people that can enter the building for safety reasons. Go on a weekday or during a meal time so you can avoid the crowd and the line.從孔廟，我們走路到林百貨。建議大家平日來這裡，否則碰到人潮，得在外面排隊。可能老建築結構比較脆弱，所以有限制入館的人數。人多的時候，有人出來，才能有人進去。感覺林百貨裡面大部分客人都是走馬看花的遊覽車遊客，還有來約會的年輕人。裡面的產品有台灣較精緻的農產品，手工服飾（帆布包當然也不可少），其他文創產品，比較有設計感的一些東西。去勘景時，我們逛了很久，覺得有很多好玩的東西，很適合送禮（給年輕朋友），我自己也買了一頂帽子。林百貨裡面的兩間咖啡廳的氣氛也不錯，都有大面玻璃窗。它的頂樓也很有看頭，有招財神的日本神社，也有當時空襲留下來的彈孔。以前有彈孔的地方更多，但整修時，為了安全，幾乎都拆掉了。After Hayashi, we went to Shennong Street 神農街 where it’s nicer at night. If you go during the day, you can kind of appreciate the history (canals, long houses), but it looks really dirty, old and dilapidated. At night when the street lights/lanterns light up, it becomes magical. And that was the end of our tour.林百貨之後，我們回到好行路線，搭車到神農街。建議這裡晚上來，白天感覺破破的，晚上燈點亮之後就很有氣氛，感覺宮崎駿可以來這裡取景。以上是米雪拉這次的漫遊行程～It’s always nice if you can get a guide to tell you the stories and facts of what you’re looking at. Tainan City Hall has tours that you can sign up for. I think they’re only in Chinese right now, but if you have a translator with you, that works too.建議大家出去玩，盡量找解說員，玩起來比較有意義，印象也比較深刻，難忘。台南市政府有導覽解說的服務： http://tour.tainan.gov.tw/Activity/(S(vdaxmv55nbjsoanvwnwkj545))/chinese/ApplicationList.aspxWe’ve been staying at Wei-Yat Hotel on these last few trips to Tainan. They accommodate our budget and we really appreciate it. The hotel is a bit old, but the rooms are very decent and the service is good. It’s right by Anping Canal, which I like. I can see crews rowing on it in the mornings and sometimes in the evenings. It brings back wonderful memories of my rowing days in college. Across the river is a beef soup restaurant called Wenzhang “文章.” The establishment is not exactly squeaky clean, but the beef soup is very tasty. I like their food, but I prefer it to go. Another restaurant close by is Akasushi/chishousi 赤壽司, a Japanese place. We sat at the counter, and it was a nice experience. A place to revisit the next time we stay at Wei-Yat.我們最近都住在維悅，很感謝飯店能夠配合我們的預算。維悅有一點歷史了，不過房間和服務都很不錯，地點也很好，在安平運河旁，早上和晚上都有人在練西式划船，讓我想到我大學划船，酸甜苦辣的回憶。飯店斜對面，運河的另外一邊有一家文章牛肉湯，距離「乾淨，舒適」有點距離，但牛肉湯很好喝。如果要再去吃，我會外帶回飯店慢慢享用。還有另外一間附近的餐廳，赤壽司，這裡就比較乾淨了，也好吃，這家絕對還有下一次。These are reasonably priced and clean business hotels that we’ve stayed at in Tainan: Kindness, Kiwi. If Wei-Yat isn’t available, I don’t mind going back to Kindness and Kiwi, whose walls are paper thin, but the guests are usually decent and don’t make too much noise. What I find makes the most noise are the water lines in the ceiling and walls. They sound like waterfalls sometimes.台南有好幾間廉價的商務旅館，我們住過康橋，奇異果。如果維悅沒空房，這兩家就是備案。優點是便宜，平日定價大概2000以內吧，缺點是隔音很差，水聲很大聲，感覺水將從和牆壁，天花板爆衝出來。房客水準比較不複雜，很多是出差的人，其實陸客也不少，但不會太吵。There are lots of B&B’s in Tainan, and some of them are quite interestingly and nicely decorated. Sometimes nice decor doesn’t translate to comfort, and in many cases in Tainan, don’t translate to safe and legal. You’ll notice that a lot of B&B’s don’t have signs, and that’s because they’re not registered (or can’t be registered). Once they put a B&B sign out, the authorities come and write them a ticket for operating business without a permit. Sometimes laws and regulations aren’t reasonable or are way out of date, but I personally feel more at ease when the place I’m staying in is legal, which means it at least has passed fire and other safety regulations. For a while, I was really interested in B&B’s, but I find that hotels are generally much more comfortable and the level of quality can be expected. Oftentimes, the price is about the same for hotels and B&B’s, so the obvious choice for me is hotel.台南有很多民宿，很多都很有特色，不過舒適不舒適，安全不安全，就另外一回事了。很多民宿有看板，因為不合法，看板一擺出，可能就被開單了。不合法有很多原因，可能安檢沒通過，可能現在的規定無法讓他們營業，有很多可能。或許一些法律不合裡，但對我來說，有掛牌營業的地方比較有保障，所以我現在都盡量住飯店，通常飯店也比較舒適，畢竟飯店這方面比較有經驗。Links:Hayashi Department Store 林百貨 http://www.hayashi.com.twWei Yat Hotel 維悅飯店 www.weiyat-hotel.com/Akasushi/chishousi 赤壽司 https://www.facebook.com/Tainan.AkasushiWardrobe & Accessories 服裝與配件:Watch: Martian摩絢錶 http://www.martianwatches.com.tw/tw/index.asp?au_id=17&sub_id=48Shirt: kotipesä http://kotipesa.comShorts: Uniqlo Taiwan http://www.uniqlo.comShoes: Rucoline http://www.rucoline.com
Posted by FTV Time for Taiwan on Monday, October 12, 2015

Time for Taiwan 2015-2016, Episode 6: Confucius Temple, Tainan
2015-2016年「台灣好好玩」第六集：台南孔廟 漫步旅行


Transcipt 文字稿:


Welcome to Tainan, the oldest city of Taiwan. Here you'll find the oldest public school, which is housed inside the oldest Confucius Temple or “kongmiao,” on the island.歡迎來到台南，台灣最老的城市，這裡也有全台最老的公立學校，這間學校位於台灣最老的孔廟裡面。


I want to take you on a walking tour today. But we can cheat a little and take the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle, 88 Anping Route part of the way.今天我要帶大家漫步旅行，不過有一些地方我們可以搭台灣好行88安平線，偷個懶。


You can use an Easycard or iPass to tag on and off the bus, and the fare is NT$18 or NT$36 depending on how far you go. You can buy and charge these at convenience stores.車資可以用悠遊卡或一卡通感應付費，每一趟才18元或36元，看你坐多遠。悠遊卡和一卡通可以在便利商店購買和儲值。


We're at Tainan Train Station and Confucius Temple is here.這裡是台南火車站，孔廟在那裡。


Taiwan Tourist Shuttles are great, they take you to tourist attractions. If you don't know where you want to go, get a brochure and figure it out on the bus.台灣好行真的很棒，它會直接載你到觀光景點。沒做功課也沒關係，拿個DM，然後上車研究就好了。


Today's theme is "oldest in Taiwan," and I want to bring you to the oldest Confucian Temple, the oldest public school, the oldest department store, then to one of the oldest and most nostalgic streets in Tainan.今天的主題是「台灣最早，台灣最老」，我要帶大家到台灣最早的孔廟，最早官方設立的學校，然後再到台灣最老的百貨公司，最後再去一條很有古早味的巷子。


This is Confucius Temple, which has a three-star Michelin Green Guide rating, which means you probably don’t want to miss it. This place has a special meaning to me. I’ll tell you about it later.這裡是孔廟，它擁有米其林綠色旅遊三顆星的評鑑，意思是，錯過可能會後悔。其實這裡呢，對我有個特別的意義，待會兒跟大家講。


Tainan was once a Dutch colony used for trade, but after Koxinga, a Chinese official, drove them out in 1661, the Chinese government decided to develop the area. To foster culture and education, they built this Confucian temple and schoolhouse in 1665.台南曾經是荷蘭人為了做貿易的殖民地，鄭成功將他們趕走之後，中國決定將台南好好發展，而為了推廣教育，官方在1665年蓋了這間孔廟和學堂。


These are mortuary tablets of some of Confucius’ most famous students. Intellect was considered to be quite holy.這是孔子一些知名弟子的牌位。智慧是非常神聖的。


When Confucius was still alive, in the 400-500’s BC, he told his students, when I die, do not worship me, for I am just a teacher. But students often don’t do what they’re told, do they?孔子還活著的時候，大約西元前四五百年，他跟他的學生說，我死了之後不要祭拜我，因為我只是個老師。但是學生從來不聽老師話...


Schoolhouses were often attached to Confucian temples. This school was more like a college or a graduate school.古時候，學堂經常蓋在孔廟裡面或旁邊。這間學堂的層級比較像現在的大學，或研究所。


Earlier I said that this particular Confucian Temple has special meaning to me. In 1915 my great-grandparents on my godmother’s side were married here, in this classroom. And turning tradition completely on its head, they decided to come to the wedding in a tuxedo and a Western wedding dress. I guess rebelliousness runs in the family.剛才我說這間孔廟對我來說，有特別的意義。1915年，我的乾曾祖父母的婚禮，是在這間學堂舉行的。他們顛覆傳統，決定穿西方的白紗和燕尾服，而不是傳統中國的長袍馬褂。看來姓翁的人，都很有自己的想法。


I love this area. You can eat your way through to your next destination. Over there is where you can get fresh cut fruit and just a few doors down is where you can get steamed meatballs. I’m going to get this, meat buns. These are really, really good.我好喜歡這一區，可以從頭吃到尾。那邊有冰果室，隔壁幾家有肉圓，我呢，來吃個包子好了。這好好吃喔。


Next let’s walk over to Hayashi Department Store, the oldest remaining department store in Taiwan. It was opened during the Japanese occupation in 1932 by a Japanese businessman named “Houichi Hayashi.”接下來我們散步到林百貨，台灣最老，目前還有在營業的百貨。林百貨是在1932年日治時代，由一位叫做林方一的日本人創辦的。


There are six stories here and it was the tallest and perhaps even the most decadent building in Tainan at the time.六層樓高，這裡當時可是最高，也可能是台南最華麗的一棟大樓。


In the 1930’s, popular music started to pick up, people started going out dancing, and department stores started popping up here and there. I think it was pretty good times.1930年代，大家開始聽台語流行音樂，開始流行跳舞，百貨公司也開始一間間的開張，可以說是一個繁榮美好的時代。
But WWII broke out in the 40’s and Tainan was heavily bombed by the Americans.

不過1940年代發生二次世界大戰，台南則被美軍轟炸得相當嚴重。
You can still see some of the bullet holes left by attack aircraft. Eventually Japan lost the war and they left Taiwan. But this was still the tallest building around, when the KMT came, they decided to install 50 anti-aircraft machine guns on the roof. A couple of (the machine gun) posts from those days are still here. That one, and this one.這邊還可以看當時戰機襲擊留下的彈孔。後來日本敗戰，撤出台灣。不過因為林百貨是當時最高的建築物，國民黨軍隊決定在屋頂設立防空機關槍，現在還看得到幾個機關槍座，那邊有一個，這邊也有一個。


And one more in the middle of the Japanese shrine.神社中間還有一個。


This building was left quite damaged, then used by various government offices over the years and abandoned until it was restored to its former glory and finally reopened in 2014. It’s a nice place now. I personally like it.林百貨的建築主體受到不小的打擊，而經過好幾個政府單位輪流使用空間，然後閒置多年，終於在2014年完整修復，重新開幕。現在這地方不錯，我個人蠻喜歡的。


Now we’re headed for “Shennong Jie,” Shennong Street, where it’s especially nostalgic at night. The area was kind of like Venice, where there are canals that people went up and down in small boats.接著我們要到神農街，這裡晚上特別懷舊喔～以前這裡有點像威尼斯，有好幾條水道，可以看到民眾坐著船，划來划去。


This was one of the five canals that used to be here.這裡曾經是五條水路其中一條。


Boats would bring in goods like cloth, or Chinese herbal medicine, or perhaps dried food ingredients to the backdoor of these buildings. The merchandise would then be brought to the front of the building where the shop is, to be sold.當時小船就載著布料，中藥材，南北貨等等，到後門卸貨，再把貨品搬到前面的店鋪來販售。


When you look at these buildings from the front, nothing seems out of the ordinary, but from the side, you’ll notice that they’re really, really long.這些房子，從正面看，感覺蠻正常的，不過從側面看，你會發現它很長很長。
Families needed the space to live, to store inventory, and to do business in the storefront. Seventy meters - this was one house. Wow.這些空間包含一個家庭住的地方，儲藏貨物的空間，還有店面。一棟房子70公尺長耶，哇塞！


This are used to be a very busy business district, but now it’s developing into a quiet, cafe, artsy sort of area. Might not seem like much during the day, but makes for a nice after dinner stroll.這裡曾經是個很熱鬧的貿易區，現在發展為一個寧靜的咖啡和文創產品店的小區域，白天不是很起眼，但非常適合晚餐後的散步。


Tainan is one of those places that I keep coming back to. It keeps reinventing itself, but bringing back some of the history which has been lost. The wonderful thing about traveling here is that most of the places you’d want to go are within walking distance, and with the tourist shuttle bus, you can save time and go even further. I love Tainan and you might too. You should come.感覺我還蠻常來台南的，每次來都有一些不一樣，不過在這些變化當中會找回部分消失的歷史。來這邊玩，我覺得很棒的是，很多想去的地方，走路就可以到。加上台灣好行，又可以省時間，甚至跑更遠。我超愛台南的，或許你也會愛上它。大家要來喔。

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Tainan is one of my favorite places to go, and one of my favorite destinations on private trips. Transportation is easy: bullet train down from Taipei, and taxi/cycle/bus within the city. Accommodations is easy: lots of decent hotels from 2000 and up. Food is easy and really tasty: food everywhere and nearly all delicious. People are easy: usually super friendly.我超喜歡台南的，常因為工作去台南，不過自己有時候也會去玩。從台北到台南，搭高鐵就能到。台南市區內可以搭計程車，公車，或騎腳踏車。住宿有很多選擇，2000元以上的飯店都還算可以。吃的很好找，幾乎隨便一家都很好吃。人也通常很親切。


In this episode, we took the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Anping 88 Route from the Tainan Train Station. There are packages available, but with no English support, so I spared everyone the details in the video. But if you want the package, you get it through 7-11’s ibon kiosk. The easiest way (without paying that much more money) really is by using an iPass/Easycard, and it’s NT$18 or NT$36 depending on how far you go. Most of the things to do/see are concentrated downtown and mostly walkable. A lot of hotels will have bicycles that you can borrow, so that’s really convenient, too. I wasn’t too comfortable about riding my skateboard there. All the streets seemed to have a lot of cars and scooters, and people down there don’t exactly heed traffic signals. To seriously a lot of people, green is go straight and red is turn left or right!這一集，我們從台南火車站搭台灣好行88安平線到孔廟和神農街。88安平線有套票，要透過7-11的ibon買，不過只有中文介面，店員也不見得會講英文，所以不會中文的朋友自己來的話，建議直接用一卡通或悠遊卡，反正沒有很貴，一段18塊，兩段才36塊。很多景點集中在市區，所以很多地方走路就可以到。很多飯店都有腳踏車可以借，也是個選擇。本來想說把電動滑板帶下去，但覺得台南馬路很恐怖，很多人都綠燈直走，紅燈轉彎，嚇死人了。我抓不到他們的節奏，想說算了，滑板放家裡。


We started at Tainan Station and took the tourist shuttle to Confucius Temple. You can budget about an hour or less there. Across the street are some great places. Exit the main gate and diagonally across on the right is a cafe called Zhaimen 窄門 meaning “narrow gate/door” overlooking the temple, but the entrance is hidden at the side of the building. To get to the entrance, you have to squeeze through two buildings, and most people have to turn sideways and suck in their stomach to get through the narrowest part, which is right at the street. It’s fun. Once you get through, it’s on your left, and you have to go upstairs to the second floor. It’s an old house that belonged to a Japanese doctor, I believe, during the occupation. Now it’s just a cafe with creaky floors and nostalgic decor. I wanted to show my friend Cedric, but when we went and popped our heads in the cafe, the young man at the counter didn’t seem very happy for us to be “disturbing” them. I said I just wanted to show my friend the place so maybe when he comes next time he can bring his family, but the young man's face kind of showed “you better sit down and order something or get out of here.” Makes me not want to go ever again, but that’s another issue.我們從台南火車站出發，搭了台灣好行巴士到孔廟。自己逛的話，孔廟一小時就夠了。孔廟對面有幾間有趣的店，包括正門右邊斜對面有一間窄門咖啡，從他們二樓靠窗桌可以看到孔廟，不過有趣的是他們的入口，要側身，甚至側身再把肚子吸進去才過得去。我記得有人說這裡曾經是一位日本醫師的房子。現在就是一家懷舊的咖啡廳，地板還會吱吱叫。比較可惜的是，那天沒什麼時間，不過我想帶我朋友Cedric去看一下，改天他才知道怎麼去。服務生一副妳要嘛就消費，要嘛就不要打擾我們的樣子。這樣以後人家怎麼會想再去？任何路...(anyway)


A few doors down from the cafe is a supermarket with the best meat buns. They have lots of flavors, but I like the original with pork, mushrooms, a little bit of spring onion, pepper and a salted duck egg yolk. Sometimes I buy a bunch, freeze them and steam them for breakfast. Across the street is Lili Fruits 莉莉水果店 where they sell high quality, fresh cut fruits and juices. I love that place. If you like steamed meatballs coated in a thick, glutinous rice covering, 20 meters down from Lili is a small meatball restaurant. It’s quite famous, a lot of people (my husband included) like it, but I find it just OK.窄門再過去一點有一間克林超市，超市有個買包子的窗口，這裡的包子好好吃～ 我最喜歡吃原味，就是八寶包，裡面有豬肉，香菇，一點蔥，黑胡椒， 鴨蛋黃。有時候我會買一兩盒凍起來，早上放電鍋，配一杯豆漿，就是個超棒的早餐。肉包店的10點中方向是莉莉水果店，這裡有高品質的新鮮水果，冰，和果汁。莉莉的隔壁幾家有肉圓店，蒸的，很嫩，歪嘴雞好ㄤ說好吃。


From there we walked to Hayashi Department Store, renovated, reopened and geared towards a younger crowd with a focus on industrial design. A lot of the items there are fun and interesting and make great gifts. I bought my new hat there. There are a couple of cafes in Hayashi with lots of natural light, and I find that quite enjoyable. Not to be missed are the bullet holes left on display and the Japanese shrine (to help with harvests/business) on the roof. You might want to avoid going to Hayashi on a weekend, though, because they limit the number of people that can enter the building for safety reasons. Go on a weekday or during a meal time so you can avoid the crowd and the line.從孔廟，我們走路到林百貨。建議大家平日來這裡，否則碰到人潮，得在外面排隊。可能老建築結構比較脆弱，所以有限制入館的人數。人多的時候，有人出來，才能有人進去。感覺林百貨裡面大部分客人都是走馬看花的遊覽車遊客，還有來約會的年輕人。裡面的產品有台灣較精緻的農產品，手工服飾（帆布包當然也不可少），其他文創產品，比較有設計感的一些東西。去勘景時，我們逛了很久，覺得有很多好玩的東西，很適合送禮（給年輕朋友），我自己也買了一頂帽子。林百貨裡面的兩間咖啡廳的氣氛也不錯，都有大面玻璃窗。它的頂樓也很有看頭，有招財神的日本神社，也有當時空襲留下來的彈孔。以前有彈孔的地方更多，但整修時，為了安全，幾乎都拆掉了。


After Hayashi, we went to Shennong Street 神農街 where it’s nicer at night. If you go during the day, you can kind of appreciate the history (canals, long houses), but it looks really dirty, old and dilapidated. At night when the street lights/lanterns light up, it becomes magical. And that was the end of our tour.林百貨之後，我們回到好行路線，搭車到神農街。建議這裡晚上來，白天感覺破破的，晚上燈點亮之後就很有氣氛，感覺宮崎駿可以來這裡取景。以上是米雪拉這次的漫遊行程～


It’s always nice if you can get a guide to tell you the stories and facts of what you’re looking at. Tainan City Hall has tours that you can sign up for. I think they’re only in Chinese right now, but if you have a translator with you, that works too.建議大家出去玩，盡量找解說員，玩起來比較有意義，印象也比較深刻，難忘。台南市政府有導覽解說的服務： http://tour.tainan.gov.tw/Activity/(S(vdaxmv55nbjsoanvwnwkj545))/chinese/ApplicationList.aspx

We’ve been staying at Wei-Yat Hotel on these last few trips to Tainan. They accommodate our budget and we really appreciate it. The hotel is a bit old, but the rooms are very decent and the service is good. It’s right by Anping Canal, which I like. I can see crews rowing on it in the mornings and sometimes in the evenings. It brings back wonderful memories of my rowing days in college. Across the river is a beef soup restaurant called Wenzhang “文章.” The establishment is not exactly squeaky clean, but the beef soup is very tasty. I like their food, but I prefer it to go. Another restaurant close by is Akasushi/chishousi 赤壽司, a Japanese place. We sat at the counter, and it was a nice experience. A place to revisit the next time we stay at Wei-Yat.我們最近都住在維悅，很感謝飯店能夠配合我們的預算。維悅有一點歷史了，不過房間和服務都很不錯，地點也很好，在安平運河旁，早上和晚上都有人在練西式划船，讓我想到我大學划船，酸甜苦辣的回憶。飯店斜對面，運河的另外一邊有一家文章牛肉湯，距離「乾淨，舒適」有點距離，但牛肉湯很好喝。如果要再去吃，我會外帶回飯店慢慢享用。還有另外一間附近的餐廳，赤壽司，這裡就比較乾淨了，也好吃，這家絕對還有下一次。

These are reasonably priced and clean business hotels that we’ve stayed at in Tainan: Kindness, Kiwi. If Wei-Yat isn’t available, I don’t mind going back to Kindness and Kiwi, whose walls are paper thin, but the guests are usually decent and don’t make too much noise. What I find makes the most noise are the water lines in the ceiling and walls. They sound like waterfalls sometimes.台南有好幾間廉價的商務旅館，我們住過康橋，奇異果。如果維悅沒空房，這兩家就是備案。優點是便宜，平日定價大概2000以內吧，缺點是隔音很差，水聲很大聲，感覺水將從和牆壁，天花板爆衝出來。房客水準比較不複雜，很多是出差的人，其實陸客也不少，但不會太吵。

There are lots of B&B’s in Tainan, and some of them are quite interestingly and nicely decorated. Sometimes nice decor doesn’t translate to comfort, and in many cases in Tainan, don’t translate to safe and legal. You’ll notice that a lot of B&B’s don’t have signs, and that’s because they’re not registered (or can’t be registered). Once they put a B&B sign out, the authorities come and write them a ticket for operating business without a permit. Sometimes laws and regulations aren’t reasonable or are way out of date, but I personally feel more at ease when the place I’m staying in is legal, which means it at least has passed fire and other safety regulations. For a while, I was really interested in B&B’s, but I find that hotels are generally much more comfortable and the level of quality can be expected. Oftentimes, the price is about the same for hotels and B&B’s, so the obvious choice for me is hotel.台南有很多民宿，很多都很有特色，不過舒適不舒適，安全不安全，就另外一回事了。很多民宿有看板，因為不合法，看板一擺出，可能就被開單了。不合法有很多原因，可能安檢沒通過，可能現在的規定無法讓他們營業，有很多可能。或許一些法律不合裡，但對我來說，有掛牌營業的地方比較有保障，所以我現在都盡量住飯店，通常飯店也比較舒適，畢竟飯店這方面比較有經驗。

Links:Hayashi Department Store 林百貨 http://www.hayashi.com.twWei Yat Hotel 維悅飯店 www.weiyat-hotel.com/Akasushi/chishousi 赤壽司 https://www.facebook.com/Tainan.Akasushi

Wardrobe & Accessories 服裝與配件:Watch: Martian http://www.martianwatches.com.tw/tw/index.asp?au_id=17&sub_id=48
Shirt: Kotipesa http://kotipesa.com
Shorts: Uniqlo http://www.uniqlo.com
Shoes: Rucoline http://www.rucoline.com

Yanshui Bottle Rocket Festival Fun 來去鹽水 看蜂炮 嚐意麵

20120225 來去鹽水玩 看鋒炮 嚐意麵

http://youtu.be/HSzpvQ-fhQo

Beehive Rocket Festival.mpg
http://youtu.be/vYZowl_sG_k

武廟 Wu Temple
http://www.wumiao.idv.tw/
台南市鹽水區武廟路87號
+886 6 652 1264
87 Wumiao Road, Yanshui, Tainan

阿桐意麵 Atong noodles

台南市鹽水區中山路鹽水點心城內

+886 6 652 3361

+886 918 278 635

Dianxincheng, Zhongshan Road, Yanshui, Tainan

Canon Kiss X3

EF 35mm f1.4L USM

Aperture

Special thanks to Ms 鄭王永雪 for being our guide.

畫面	OS/NS/SB
主播稿	今天的旅遊專題，我們要帶您到鹽水，體驗蜂炮的洗禮，和品嚐鹽水又薄又Q又香的肉燥意麵。
music 準備蜂炮 （緊湊，high一點的片頭）
NS 蜂炮
武廟管理人 林益仁	鹽水這間武廟主要的神明是關聖帝君，這間廟創建於清朝，明末清初的時候，到現在有343年，第二次世界大戰美軍來轟炸鹽水的時候，唯一沒被轟炸的只有這一間，所以才能保存得這麼好。針對蜂炮，一年一次，到現在已經辦203年了，就是清朝的時候，那個時候有一個流行病，鼠疫，每天死很多人。那個時候關帝爺說他要出去遶境，希望家家戶戶都放蜂炮。就好像蜜蜂的巢穴，射出來的聲音嗡嗡嗡嗡，後來瘟疫就消失了。
	沒想到瘟疫就此被控制住了。
NS 蜂炮
	鞭炮聲那麼大，真不知道怎麼在說什麼，再來聽一次吧。
	嗯，還是聽不大懂，我說， 「我們現在來到台南鹽水體驗用蜂炮驅邪祈福，希望越炸越旺，啊啊啊啊啊！鹽水蜂炮，我們來了，啊啊啊啊啊啊啊！」
NS 蜂炮
主持人 翁郁容	昨天真的好刺激，好瘋狂，今天聲音還有一點沙啞，因為昨天一直在叫*%^$%($#@好痛，我們來這邊幹什麼，喔喔喔喔。結果回去發現口袋裡面也被燒了幾個洞，發現因為蜂炮真的鑽了進去，不是開玩笑的。今天我們兩隻手，兩隻腳，十跟手指頭都還在，所以我們決定要去吃東西，去逛老街。
	而這裡是月津港，您知道嗎，一府二港三艋舺後面還有個四月津。鹽水因為月津港，曾經很繁榮喔！
鹽水旅遊達人 王鄭永雪	以前這裡是一個商港，一直在載貨出貨，把貨載到泉州跟漳州。鹽水以前叫做「大龜肉」，烏龜的「龜」。後來因為每一個角落，彎的地方都很像月亮，我們這邊的人就把它改叫「月津」。
	而這裡就是月津港旁邊的老街，這邊有家百年打鐵老店。
	老闆你說你在這裡第幾代了？ 一，二十代了，兩百多年。這間店有兩百多年歷史，菜刀，鋤頭，什麼都有。
	逛完老街，可以來點心城品嚐當地特產小吃，鹽水意麵，還有肉燕酥。
NS 炸
意麵店老闆娘 吳惠燕	以前的人，魚漿就叫「燕」，所以這就叫肉燕蘇。裡面有洋蔥，還有蔥，還有魚漿，還有豬絞肉。另外就是加香料，香料是綜合魚漿的腥味。皮是麵粉皮，然後加雞蛋，它可以做乾的也可以做湯的。湯的話，我們可以加一些肉燥的滷汁，還有加一些蒜末，吃起來香香酥酥的。湯的話，我們就高湯直接沖下去，就是有一點軟，等它要軟不軟的時候吃最好吃。這是我們鹽水的特產。
	而這裡的意麵，搭配著肉燥，香又彈牙。
意麵店老闆娘 吳惠燕	放肉片，然後還有肉燥。 這肉燥看起來好好吃。 對。肉都是特選的。
	不知不覺一口接著一口，這一碗好滋味，令人念念不忘。想不想看看鹽水意麵是怎麼做的呀？工廠就在旁邊。
	你看，他們是加鴨蛋喔！這是增加麵的彈性。
music 製作
	從工廠出來的意麵有兩種，一種是濕的，一種是乾的。濕的煮起來口感比較好，不過乾的能夠保存比較久，但就是得先晒過。
music
	來到台南鹽水，感覺走入時光隧道。古早的過節方式，古早的建築和美食，令人懷舊。
	民視新聞 翁郁容 謝政霖 台南報導

畫面	OS/NS/SB
music 準備蜂炮 （緊湊，high一點的片頭）
NS 蜂炮
Lin Yi-ren, Wu Temple Caretaker	Emperor Guan is the main deity in Wu Temple. This temple was built in the Ching dynasty, 343 years ago. As for the Beehive Rocket Festival, it is held once a year here and it has been going on for 203 years. During the Ching dynasty, there was a plague  and each day many people died. Emperor Guan said through a medium that he wanted to go around town and for people to set off bottle rockets when he went by. The packs of rockets used to look like honeycombs and the sound they made was kind of like a bee. Then the plague went away. 鹽水這間武廟主要的神明是關聖帝君，這間廟創建於清朝，明末清初的時候，到現在有343年。爭對蜂炮，一年一次，到現在已經辦203年了，就是清朝的時候，那個時候有一個流行病，鼠疫，每天死很多人。那個時候關帝爺說他要出去遶境，希望家家戶戶都放蜂炮。就好像蜜蜂的巢穴，射出來的聲音嗡嗡嗡嗡，後來瘟疫就消失了。
	And that’s how the epidemic was stopped and the Beehive Rocket Festival came to be. 沒想到瘟疫就此被控制住了，而鹽水的蜂炮傳統就如此誕生了。
NS 蜂炮
	Oops, forgot to turn on the microphone, I guess. 啊，看來望了開麥克風。
	I swear, my microphone was on, but the bottle rockets were just too loud, not to mention painful too. This is undoubtedly one of the craziest festivals in the world. 奇怪，麥克風真的有開啊，就是蜂炮太大聲了，而且好痛喔。這真的是世界數一數二瘋狂的傳統活動。
NS 蜂炮
Michella Jade Weng, Presenter	Gosh, last night was exciting! Still a little bit hoarse from all the screaming and a little bit shaky from all the excitement. But I still have all 10 fingers, all 10 toes and all of my limbs. So I think we're going to go explore the rest of the town. Shall we? 昨天真的好刺激，好瘋狂，今天聲音還有一點沙啞，因為昨天一直在叫*%^$%($#@好痛，我們來這邊幹什麼，喔喔喔喔。結果回去發現口袋裡面也被燒了幾個洞，發現因為蜂炮真的鑽了進去，不是開玩笑的。今天我們兩隻手，兩隻腳，十支手指頭都還在，所以我們決定要去吃東西，去逛老街。
	Yanshui was one of the four most prosperous regions in Taiwan because of its harbor, but unfortunately not anymore. These days, it’s mostly known as a historical town and of course, for shooting millions of bottle rockets in one night on the Lantern Festival every year. The other 364 days, it’s pretty quiet, and is a good place to take a walk. 而這裡是月津港，您知道嗎，一府二港三艋舺後面還有個四月津。鹽水因為月津港，曾經很繁榮喔！現在這裡則是一座歷史悠久，每逢元宵節就會放蜂炮的小鎮，而其他時候，來這裡散步，還挺舒服的。
NS 炸
	And when you’re here, you’ll want to try the fried wontons made with not just ground pork, but with some fish paste mixed into the filling as well. Oh, and don’t forget the flat, thin and very al dente duck egg noodles with meat sauce. Mmmm. 逛完老街，可以來點心城品嚐當地特產小吃，有絞肉和魚漿的炸混沌，肉燕酥。而這裡的意麵也美味，搭配著肉燥，香又彈牙。嗯～
	不知不覺一口接著一口，這一碗好滋味，令人念念不忘。
	As the festivities wind down in Yanshui, life returns to normal for the residents here. But even when you’re not here during the Lunar New year, it’s still a nice place to travel through on your way to someplace else. 活動結束後，鹽水的生活步調恢復正常，不過非過年期間，這裡還是很值得停留一下，走一走，看一看。