Time for Taiwan 2015-2016, Episode 19: Jiji by Train
2015-2016年「台灣好好玩」第十九集： 搭火車到集集
Transcript 文字稿:
Today we’re in Jiji, Nantou County, and the theme of this trip is “tunnels.”
今天我們來到南投縣集集鎮，這次的主題是：隧道。
I'm Michella. I grew up in the Silicon Valley and was a journalist in Taiwan for ten years. I like to try new things, play with new toys, and visit old places in a new way. I’m going to show you around the Taiwan that I know. I hope you’ll enjoy it as much as I do.
我是米雪拉，在美國矽谷長大，回來台灣當了十年的新聞工作者，喜歡嘗試新東西，玩新玩具，用新的方式體驗旅行。台灣好好玩，到底有多好玩，讓我和你分享。
To get to Jiji, you can take a train. The Jiji line starts at Ershui Station, which is in Changhua. You can pay by tagging on and off with an Easycard or iPass.
大家可以搭火車到集集，集集支線的起點在彰化二水。購票，其實用悠遊卡或一卡通刷上刷下就好了。
Railroads in the very beginning were built to transport not people, but resources. The Jiji branch line was first built for transporting sugar canes, then it was widened for camphor, bananas and building materials for a dam in the 1930’s during the Japanese occupation.
鐵道最早都是為了運送原物料，而不是民眾。集集支線一開始主要運的是甘蔗，1930年代日治時代再拓寬，當時是為了運送樟樹，香蕉，還有建設水壩的建材。
The dam at Sun Moon Lake was built to generate electricity, and the scale of the construction was huge and the local office anticipated that the emperor would visit, so they built a station house for this stop on the railroad.
建造日月潭的水壩時為了水力發電，而因為這一件公共建設的規模非常大，當地的官員預測天皇很有可能會來巡視，所以必須建造集集車站。
This station house was originally in Yangmei, Taoyuan. It was retired, taken apart, numbered and put into storage. But when they heard that the big boss was coming, instead of building a brand new station house, they decided to find all the parts very quickly, put them on a train, and reassemble everything here in Jiji. I think that’s so cool and environmentally friendly, too! And personally, the grayish blue paint and white paint, I love that combination. Almost 100 years later, it’s back in fashion.
集集車站的建築本體，其實是原本是舊的楊梅車站拆下來的。當初楊梅車站更新時，舊的整座建築被小心拆下，寫上編號，然後收進倉庫。當官員聽到大老闆要來，這裏的人決定趕快把楊梅站所有零件搬過來，重新組合起來。我覺得這樣好酷，好環保。這裏藍色和白色的粉刷也好好看。沒想到100年之後這顏色組合又流行回來了。
To visitors, this place looks nice and perhaps nostalgic. To people who have lived here their all their lives, it’s a place filled with memories. In the old days clocks weren’t common, people relied on the trains, which came in at the same times every day, to tell the time. That’s even more cool.
對遊客來說，這裏或許很漂亮，很懷舊，但對居民來說，這裏是一個充滿回憶的地方。以前時鐘並不普遍，大家都靠著每天固定時間進出集集車站的火車，告訴他們現在是幾點了。哇，這更酷。
Next we’re going here, a banana museum.
接下來我們要到這裏，一間香蕉博物館。
This is where you can find out why even the royal family in Japan was so bananas about Taiwan bananas.
來到這裏就可以知道為什麼當年日本皇室那麼愛台灣的香蕉。
These are local bananas, and because the elevation here is above 200 meters, these are technically “mountain bananas.” So how do you know what kind of banana you’re looking at? This part of the mountain banana is shorter than that of the average banana.
這是當地的香蕉，這裏海拔超過200公尺，所以這裏的香蕉稱為「山蕉」。那怎麼樣才知道是平地香蕉還是山蕉呢？山蕉的這個部分比較短。
Did you know that a banana is a berry? And that bananas on the market are genetically modified? Because if you peel open an ancient non GM banana, you’re going to get some huge seeds and no meat. So perhaps GMO’s aren’t necessarily all that evil.
你知道香蕉是個很多籽的水果，而且後來市面上的都是基因改造的嗎？因為最原始的香蕉剝開來都是一粒一粒很大顆的籽，根本沒有肉可以吃。所以說，基因改造不一定很糟糕喔
。
Anyway, because Jiji bananas were so tasty and high in demand, back in those days, banana farmers here made a fortune in the old days. So if a handsomely dressed government officer and a banana farmer dressed in dirty work clothes and slippers walked into a bar together, the girls after money would pick the farmer in a heartbeat.
因為好吃，需求量很大，集集的蕉農早期賺好多好多錢。據說如果一個西裝筆挺的公務員，和整件衣服沾滿香蕉乳的蕉農同時走進一間酒家，酒家女想都不用想，知道要去巴結全身髒兮兮的蕉農。
There are so many stories about this town and interesting things about bananas you can learn here. Let’s skip to the DIY part. Banana chocolate!
這裏有好多關於集集的故事，還有香蕉的知識。不過今天我們要跳到DIY的部分了，我們要做香蕉巧克力！
This is a camphor tree, about 400-700 years old. There used to be lots and lots of these here, but people started cutting them down in the 19th century because it was one of the ingredients for smokeless gun powder.
這是一棵樟樹，樹齡400-700年。以前這裏有很多很多樟樹，不過在19世紀，樟樹開始被大量砍伐，因為樟樹是無菸火藥的重要成分之一。
Every time a gun is shot, smoke goes up in the air, the enemy would see where the shooter is. So smokeless gun powder and camphor were in high demand, which was really bad news for these trees. It’s said that 70% of the world’s camphor came from the Jiji area.
以前一開槍，槍管就會冒出黑黑的煙霧，槍手的位置馬上就被暴露了。所以隨著無菸火藥的發明，樟樹的需求開始暴增，對樟樹們來說，真是個壞消息啊。據說當時世界上70%的樟樹來自集集。
This is Jiji’s famous “green tunnel,” on both sides of the road are camphor trees. These were planted in 1940 when Japan celebrated the 2,600 year of its founding. Each household was asked to plant three trees, and camphor being the valuable and native resource that it is, was the tree of choice for Jiji residents.
這裏是集集有名的綠色隧道，隧道兩旁都是樟樹。這些都是在1940年，日本慶祝開國2,600年時種下的。當時每一戶人家都被要求種3顆樹，因為集集這裏以前都是樟樹，加上有經濟價值，因此家家戶戶都栽種了樟樹。
At the stop after Jiji, you’ll find the Shuili Snake Kiln, our other tunnel.
集集的下一站是水里，這裏有蛇窯，很像一條隧道。
Because from far away it looks like a snake, that seems to have just had a feast, people called this kind of kiln a “snake kiln.” Another reason for the name is, in Taiwanese the counter for long objects has the same sound as “snake,” and the counter word later became mixed with the reptile and the name stuck.
因為從遠方看起來像一條吃了大餐的蛇，當時民眾把這種窯命名為「蛇窯」。另外一個說法是，數長條狀的量詞「條」聽起來像台語的「蛇」，後來就變成「蛇窯」了。
In the old days, people would come and huddle by the kiln for warmth. Nowadays we have hand warmers, which are about this big and this thick. But back then they used bamboo baskets with a ceramic pot inside and inside those pots they would toss pieces of hot charcoal and hod the baskets like this for warmth.
冬天的時候，附近居民喜歡來蛇窯，蹲在周圍取暖。我們現在有暖暖包，這麼小，這麼薄。當年他們用的是竹籃，竹籃裡面放了一個陶甕，陶甕裡面塞木炭，然後這樣抱著竹籃取暖，就是古代的暖暖包。
When the kilns are fired up, they get quite hot, both inside and out. Damp wood would be placed over the kilns to be dried. But not only that. People who lived around here would also bring their laundry that they had just done, still damp, and place those over the wood. And that worked as a dryer for them.
在燒陶的時候，窯裡內外的溫度都很高。需要被乾燥的木材會被擺在窯上面加快乾燥速度。而民眾會把剛洗好的衣服放在木材上面，當烘乾機用。
The kilns are fired for 3 days at 1,200 degrees Celsius. On the last day after all the ceramics have been removed and the temperature drops to around 100 degrees, women with their damp and curled hair held together by fresh bamboo pins, would run inside and quickly run back outside and their hair would be newly permed. If that wasn’t curly enough, they would make the trip on more time. Run inside and quickly run back out, and that should do it.
蛇窯要燒三天，溫度攝氏控制在1,200度左右。最後一天，所有東西都拿出來，溫度降到100度的時候，婆婆媽媽會把濕濕的頭髮用新鮮的竹籤捲著，然後跑進去再跑出來，頭髮就燙捲了。不夠捲的話，就再跑一次。
Before plastics and other materials became readily available, people relied on ceramics for practically everything, from pots to water tanks, pipes, pipe fittings, some of them big, some of them small. This one is big enough to fit a person, and actually it is supposed to fit a person. This is a bomb shelter that would be buried under the ground with just about 5 cm of the rim sticking out of the ground. During the war and before the war, the military ordered tons and tons of these, and soldiers would even have to come to help with production.
在塑料和其他材質變普遍之前，民眾仰賴著陶瓷，鍋碗瓢盆，水缸，水管，水管接頭，大大小小的東西都是陶做的。這一個東西好大，足夠一個人躲在裡面，其實這是防空洞，埋在地底下，只露出上面5公分。戰爭的時候，軍方訂購的數量很大，不少阿兵哥還被派到蛇窯幫忙生產這些防空洞。
Jiji might not sound like much. But it's not just a small town with lots of banana snacks. It’s amazing culturally and historically. I had so much fun learning about what camphor trees were used for, how the station house was built, why it was built and about the snake kiln and the people it served. The green tunnel is beautiful and the stories are so interesting. You should come!
很多人可能不知道集集很有趣。這裏不只有香蕉而已，集集的文化和歷史很豐富。我來這邊學到樟樹的作用，當初車站怎麼蓋的，為了什麼而蓋的，還有蛇窯如何讓生活更美好。集集的綠色隧道好美，故事好豐富。大家要來喔！
――――――――――
Michella's notes 米雪拉的筆記：
I really enjoyed Jiji and Shuili, because of the fun stories and the history. The banana museum is relatively new and it was my first time there. I’ve been to the snake kiln a few times now and I feel like I learn something new every time I’m there.
這次的集集和水里之旅真好玩。山蕉博物館蠻新的，我第一次去。蛇窯去過好幾次，不過總覺得每次去都有新的收穫。
The banana museum was fun. They greet you with tea eggs braised with some part of banana in the sauce, banana tea, banana egg rolls, dried bananas, banana cakes, banana chocolate…all kinds of bananas. The folks there are working really hard to sell their story and their bananas. They teamed up with a nearby university to design the packaging of some of their products, and I think they did a pretty good job! The motifs are cute in a pretty original way they depict stories relevant to the local banana industry. At the museum you’ll find displays on the banana industry here, its history, facts about bananas, and I found most of it quite interesting. It’s worth taking time to go through. Unfortunately there isn’t much in English yet. There are a couple of DIY activities you can do there, and both are fun. You can transplant a banana seedling and take it home, or you can make banana chocolates.
山蕉博物館很好玩，一進去就有山蕉茶葉蛋，山蕉茶，山蕉蛋捲，山蕉乾，山蕉鳳梨酥，山蕉巧克力，山蕉山蕉山蕉...看得出這裏的人很用力在推廣他們的山蕉和他們山蕉的故事。老闆前陣子跟當地的大學合作，設計出產品包裝，我覺得蠻好看的，而且圖案跟當地的歷史和文化有直接的連結。文物展有很多山蕉相關的故事，歷史，解說，我覺得都很有趣，很值得慢慢看。DIY部分有兩個，山蕉苗移植（可以帶回家種！），還有山蕉巧克力。
The history of the station house is also very interesting, starting from how it was built, or reconstructed here as I mentioned in the video. In 1999, the Jiji earthquake nearly destroyed the train station but luckily it was saved from demolition. The station house looked quite different than what it does now before it was restored. Historians wanted to restore the station house to what it originally looked like, so scraped down all the layers of various colors of paint until the very last one before the wood and determined that this is what color it was in the very beginning. I really, really like the bluish grey and white combination.
集集車站的歷史超有趣的，影片裡面有講到。911大地震的時候，車站差點被震垮，幸好最有被保存下來，經過修復還有仔細的研究，把好幾層不同顏色的油漆慢慢刮掉到木頭上面第一層，找回車站最原始的顏色。我好喜歡這個灰藍色和白色的組合。
The snake kiln is amazing, from the tunnel itself to the items it once fired (including hand warmers and coffins). You can watch ceramic artists at work there, try your hand at pottery, buy some pottery (I bought some really pretty bowls made there at very reasonable prices), or just enjoy the trees and the space.
蛇窯也好棒，從長長的蛇窯本身到它曾經燒過的物品（包括懷爐，甚至棺材）。來這裡可以看師傅製作，可以DIY，還有買陶瓷作品，我自己買了幾個在這裏做的碗，東西好看，價錢也很實在。園區裡有很多樹，感覺還不錯。
I took a lot of pictures on this trip and I hope to make a slideshow with commentary with them soon. Stay tuned!
這次拍了好多照片（哈，沒不小心洗掉），改天找個時間做成幻燈片，搭配語音解說，到時候再請大家來看看～
We stayed at the Teacher’s Hostel in Sun Moon Lake this time. It’s old, but spacious and they’re building a new building, which means the old ones should be getting a much, much needed upgrade soon.
我們這次住在日月潭的教師會館，這裏很老舊，不過空間很大，最近在蓋新館，所以舊館不久之後應該也會好好整修和現代化...吧？
You should come!
大家要來喔！
[[2016年3月19日：slideshow 來了]]
[[2016年3月19日：slideshow 來了]]
――――――――――
Links 連結：
Taiwan Railways Administration 台鐵： http://www.railway.gov.tw/en/
Jiji station 集集車站： http://www.sunmoonlake.gov.tw/English/SceneryView.aspx?KeyID=2de0aac3-4784-4ec4-ae07-bafe63500d87
Banana museum 集元果山蕉歷史文化館： http://jijibanana.com
Shuili snake kiln 水里蛇窯： http://www.snakekiln.com.tw/index_news.php
Sun Moon Lake Teacher’s Hostel 日月潭教師會館： http://www.sunmoonlake.gov.tw/Accessibility/HotelDetail.aspx?KeyID=215e1e87-1b15-4ead-9031-a7022f75107e
――――――――――
Accessories 配件：
Shirt: kotipesä http://www.kotipesa.com
Watch: Martian http://www.martianwatches.com.tw
Shoes: Timberland http://timberland.com.tw
Backpack: ispack https://shop.cool3c.com/taxonomy/term/2704
Koziro Cinema Mount 手機拍攝： http://www.kphoto.com.tw/front/bin/ptdetail.phtml?Part=APK014
UAV 空拍機: 3DR Solo http://www.3drobotics.com
Posts
No comments:
Post a Comment